Magical Mystery Tour

3 Stars
 5

Adjacent Routes
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HVS. A popular mini-expedition. There is some fixed gear where most needed, but take a rack. Approach by walking right (looking out) from the base of the ladders. Competent climbers will find the first 2 pitches solo-able however, if unsure, rope up.
1) 3, 25m. Traverse left to the arete and then left again, descending into a cave.
Walk/scramble left across ledges to the left edge of the cave and step around onto a good ledge.
2) 3, 10m. Climb the wide crack on the left to a ledge then drop down left into a hollow.
3) 4, 20m. Traverse left to the arete and climb round into a scoop. Pull past the overlap into a larger scoop. Old bolts.
4) 4, 25m. Traverse right to the arete and climb this, trending right at the top, to a ledge. Belay here or continue traversing right into the next cave, poor bolt and gear to belay.
5) 5, 40m. A fine exposed pitch - about HVS 5a. Climb right and up into the next cave then left onto the arete and up to a good ledge. Move right, climb the groove, moving right at its top.
FA. R.Edwards 1986. Climbed solo, bolts placed later.

USER COMMENTS

Descend the fishermans ladder if you dare. No way ho zay.
Paul Winder - 05/Dec/04

The rock is not solid and the gear is sparse. Belays are ENPs and little else particularly on pitch 3
Duncan Martin - 06/Feb/05

Such is the quality of gear and exposure on this route that a couple of climbers from Calpe attempted to escape from the area by climbing the ladders, having abbed in and pulled the ropes through. We plucked them from the top of the second ladder as they were trying to find a way out. Moral? Leave ab ropes in place, or take your swimming trunks, if not absolutely confident of success.
Duncan Martin - 06/Feb/05

A good route with exciting situations but is a bit scary with poor pro and some loose rock. I couldn't work out the ENP thingies. We belayed at 'the next cave' after pitch 4 and the final pitch was only about 25m. The hard part on pitch 5 is the arete for about 5m- it is easier after that. I second the view that leaving an abseil rope in place is a good idea in case escape is required. Its an abseil of a little under 45m down to the ledge.

Final point- we did it yesterday 15/04/05 and there are lots of nesting gulls and eggs on the route and if we new that in advance we wouldn't have climbed it, so I would recommend leaving it during nesting season.
brianrunner - 16/Apr/05

A good adventure (= 2 stars) but very little good climbing - just 10m of the last pitch deserve a star.
Simon Brown - 18/May/05

A brilliant adventure, but very spaced gear!
Nick Smith - 28/Nov/06

There are now some extra bolts on the last pitch
harold walmsley - 22/Nov/08

Rusty as before :-) Take some gear - especially if you don't use ENP!
Jakub Botwicz - 25/Mar/10

This is adventure climbing at its best. Once you have abseiled in and pulled through you are committed. I think the trad pro on pitches 3 and 4 is good and is backed up on pitch 4 with 2 bolts. I would describe pitch 5 as bolted (you will be carrying a rack so there is no panic). Given then the abseil, the position, the exposure and the quality of pitches 4 and 5 I would give the route 3 stars. Technically it is not diffecult, the grading is correct I think.
Alan Cameron - 02/Oct/10

Last week I rebolted the complete route with stainless bolts, so the climb is pretty save now. I have only added 2 bolts, so there is still max. 6 bolts in one pitch and the character of the route is not spoiled. No more ENP´s needed, and as long as you can climb a grade 5 you will not need a rack any more. Have fun!
Hagen Goetzke - 07/May/13

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