Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
The superb hanging groove in the arete is best approached directly up the steep and awkward crack below it, although those impatient individuals who can't wait to get at the main event, often climb the wall to the left. Gear in the back of the groove is hard to place (offsets?), especially for the short. Once suitably protected bridge-a-way to glory making suitable use of the left-hand arete. Many pre-place the gear in the groove on abseil which reduces the commitment and possibly the grade.
preplacing the wire in the obvious slot presents two problems: 1) it'll wear away an already worn placement and 2) it fills a vital hold that makes a hard move even harder. if you're going to preplace a wire anyway, you might as well place one higher (that's totally bombproof) with a long sling. no change on protection, big change on ease of climbing...
I think you are deliberately ignoring one of the fundamental playoffs in climbing Martin. The would be ascentionist must decide between hard with small fall or easier with bigger scarier fall, also the doubtfulness of the placements is part of the character and grade of the climb.
Horsepooh! Don't preplace the wire, knit two rocks together (thread 'em through one another) and extend the reach of the wire. Place it on the lead, panic as it's a blind placement and you've no idea how good it is. Then do the route. E4 6b
Desperately tried to place the wire from the climbing position. In my opinion, this placement has gone. Solved the problem with a bombproof Wild Country Zero and tested it (unfortunately) several times. If not preplaced, definitely harder then originally given E4 6b.