Elder Crack

3 Stars
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Ramboid < Janus  |  The Elder Statesman > Knockin' on Heaven's Door >>

The imposing narrowing fissure is one of gritstone's great crack ticks. A brambly, blocky crack leads to the sentry-box. Runners can be placed deep in the crack (although not when wearing a helmet) but a large cam is a simpler modern method. Shin up the outside of the crack to a jug on the left arete then get established in the upper crack with difficulty. The wide upper crack is a little easier - just keep laybacking. Brilliant!
FA. Joe Brown 1950. Given VS - must have been more holds on it then!


I hated this at the time, but with hindsight it is a fantastic route and I can't wait to get back on it!
Iggy_B - 22/Feb/05

Great, glad to get onsite good inverted foot jam practice
nate - 26/Sep/05

I rated this as Hard E2, the reason being, I thought I was a serious, committing route (You could put that down to bad technique tho!) Did it the old style way without the big cam, the result, after shuffling up the initial crack to the good hold, the gear is miles away, falling of didn't feel like a good option!! Not sure I'd rush back to it (On the sharp end) but a great climb none the less!
Adrian Paisey - 27/Jan/06

Completely desperate! Never been so knackered by a route in my life - my whole body was shaking and I wanted to throw up by the time I dragged myself to the top. I didn't find the 'easy' laybacking on the upper half easy at all. Classic :)
Nick Smith - 11/Nov/06

Yosemite 5.8. Get back to school...
Tom - 21/Oct/07

5.6 in the Valley
nate mcmullan - 18/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 57
    hard E3 0 of 19
    E3 0 of 19
    easy E3 0 of 19
    hard E2 7 of 19
    E2 7 of 19
    easy E2 3 of 19
    hard E1 2 of 19
    E1 0 of 19
    easy E1 0 of 19
    hard 5c 0 of 19
    5c 0 of 19
    easy 5c 0 of 19
    hard 5b 3 of 19
    5b 16 of 19
    easy 5b 0 of 19
    hard 5a 0 of 19
    5a 0 of 19
    easy 5a 0 of 19
    3 Stars 19 of 19
    2 Stars 0 of 19
    1 Star 0 of 19
    0 Stars 0 of 19
    Bag of ..... 0 of 19

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