Maupassant

2 Stars
Strong
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Moonshine < Eclipse  |  L'Horla > Insanity >>


10m. Classic grit HVS. A jamming crack leads to a bridged rest, take a big breath and layback to glory. A big chunky chockstone can be lassoed from below by cowboys.
FA. Don Whillans 1955

USER COMMENTS

nice gentle warm up
mark s davies - 18/May/03

If you fancy your chances as a cowboy/girl, then make sure you take a long enough sling! 4ft was just too short to get around the block.
Nick Smith - 02/Jul/03

Nice start and an intimidating finish. Just get started laybacking- it soon eases.
Neil Morbey - 18/Sep/03

A good warm-up for the cracks. The layback feels bold but is okay once you get going. A tricky exit.
John Camateras - 04/May/04

A useless menagerie of old gear in the depths of the upper crack. Make this seem easy the Walker way - do peapod first. Not reassured? Good. Tricky exit not so for the tall reaching over the teapot chock to a sinker or for the short finding a three finger pocket left of the coffee pot chock.
Duz Walker - 20/Aug/04

Hmmm, dunno `bout this one, seems easy enough, but I suspect its easier with only one piece of pro, so long as you don`t want it back! Solo the top with EXTREME layback or fight the chocked crack if you` re daft enough!
wizz walker - 01/Sep/04

This was my first HVS (been climbing 9 months), I placed 2 bits of gear and to be honest found it easy.

I think strength and stamina are the keys with a bold confident approach.

John
JWB - 28/Aug/05

Personally, on gritstone, I can't think of a route that better epitomises the grade. HVS 5a!
Graham - 27/Sep/05

The bridged rest is awkward and still tiring. The next mov to reach the hold below hte upper crack i found quite tough and the move to get established in the upper crack from there a bit awkward. The layback itself was something of a path, but still solid HVS - a bit of a pumpfest all-round.
Si dH - 21/Jan/06

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 127
    hard E1 0 of 42
    E1 0 of 42
    easy E1 0 of 42
    hard HVS 3 of 42
    HVS 38 of 42
    easy HVS 1 of 42
    hard VS 0 of 42
    VS 0 of 42
    easy VS 0 of 42
    hard 5b 0 of 43
    5b 0 of 43
    easy 5b 4 of 43
    hard 5a 27 of 43
    5a 12 of 43
    easy 5a 0 of 43
    hard 4c 0 of 43
    4c 0 of 43
    easy 4c 0 of 43
    3 Stars 26 of 42
    2 Stars 14 of 42
    1 Star 2 of 42
    0 Stars 0 of 42
    Bag of ..... 0 of 42

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.