Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 115
10m. Classic grit E1. The leaning groove is awkward and insecure. At the bulge (high wire and/or Friend 3.5 in the notch) leap onto the left arete and crank like a man possessed to finish or flounder with a flourish. Alternatively, ignore the photogenic jug, and pull straight up into the groove.
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It's not a friend 3 - a 3.5 would fit much better (but I didn't have one at the time).
I agree with the comment about the size 3 cam. I fell off the crux with a size 3 cam in, I'm only 9 stones and the cam just popped out.
If you're leading E1 surely you can (should?) tell the difference between a good cam placement and a bad one?
In response to D Berry:
Fair point; something is better than nothing.
Haven't led it myself but my partner lobbed of onto a size 3 technical frend and it held fine. He weighs a lot more than 9 stone too.
Why do you need the cam anyway? I led it with good nuts all the way up (actually my second pointed out the placement - I'd missed it in all the excitement)
More intimidating than hard. Most of the adjectival AND technical grade represents placing gear, the actual climbing is more amenable and strenuously fun.
Definately friend 3.5, fits perfectly. A stiff pull up and lock-off gains the finishing holds.
14/24 think hard for E1? Its 1 move wonder from what I remember - butch HVS.
all the holds are good just hard work and a big pull. size 3 is rubbish, 3.5 for sure.
Led early Septmeber, and it's a tough one, but correctly graded. I didn't bother with any large cams. Decent rack of nuts, get to the upper crack line, good nut and a half-size cam. Then retreat slightly, rest, and do that quite powerful reach (I kept to the side wall, rather than move around left).
I found this desperate, very awkward and off-balance reaching up the nose and I couldnt see where I was going from there (dyno??). Ended up lowering off.
well protected all the way.