Aurora

3 Stars
 8a

Adjacent Routes
<< Sickle < Uschanna  |  Theodora > Kaly Nikhla >>


45m. From the right, an 8m scramble up an easy slab leads to a belay stance. Follow a direct line up the face, to an intermediate loweroff at 35m (7a+ to this point) to a big hole/cave just below the top (crux). Descent by 2 abseils on a 70m rope will *just* reach the top of the easy slab. Scramble down or a 3rd abseil to the ground.
FA. Neil Gresham Sep 2004

USER COMMENTS

The 7a+ variant is well worth doing and a bit runout in places (also watch out for rope drag caused by 2nd bolt above the stance). Lowered to the stance on an 80m (belayer on stance also). I don't think a 70m rope would have reached.
Neil Binns - 15/Apr/10

awesome route. The last move to the chain, off a spicy mono, is extremely memorable. Stupidly, I ended up leading this on a 60 metre rope from the floor, and JUST had enough rope to clip the chain. Then downclimbed/jumped back to the belay, lowered a bit further, then off a bolt/mallion. Definitely recomend having a longer (and thinner) rope, but if you skip a few bolts/use very long slings low down, it's fine and less hassle for your belayer to stay on the floor (not the belay ledge higher up)
Ged Desforges - 26/Apr/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 2
    hard 8a+ 0 of 1
    8a+ 0 of 1
    easy 8a+ 0 of 1
    hard 8a 0 of 1
    8a 0 of 1
    easy 8a 1 of 1
    hard 7c+ 0 of 1
    7c+ 0 of 1
    easy 7c+ 0 of 1
    3 Stars 1 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 0 of 1
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