Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
45m. From the right, an 8m scramble up an easy slab leads to a belay stance. Follow a direct line up the face, to an intermediate loweroff at 35m (7a+ to this point) to a big hole/cave just below the top (crux). Descent by 2 abseils on a 70m rope will *just* reach the top of the easy slab. Scramble down or a 3rd abseil to the ground.
The 7a+ variant is well worth doing and a bit runout in places (also watch out for rope drag caused by 2nd bolt above the stance). Lowered to the stance on an 80m (belayer on stance also). I don't think a 70m rope would have reached.
awesome route. The last move to the chain, off a spicy mono, is extremely memorable. Stupidly, I ended up leading this on a 60 metre rope from the floor, and JUST had enough rope to clip the chain. Then downclimbed/jumped back to the belay, lowered a bit further, then off a bolt/mallion. Definitely recomend having a longer (and thinner) rope, but if you skip a few bolts/use very long slings low down, it's fine and less hassle for your belayer to stay on the floor (not the belay ledge higher up)