Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 11
Intimidating and tricky. Start as for the previous route until it is possible to writhe into the vertical crack and finish easily. Passing the change in angle is a complete swine!
It is most definitely not easy to squeeze up the vertical crack! But well worth doing.
No way is this route E1. VS possibly - hard to grade as it's not exactly a technical climb! There's reasonable gear where you need it, and standing up in the crack was a lot easier than I expected. In fact, I found getting into the horizontal break somewhat harder.
Come off it Wee Dom, it was not that hard. It did feel exposed when you stood up after the back traverse, but only VS sort of exposed. It was more like caving than climbing. A classic Grit Thug Route.
Perhaps a shade over enthusiastic. But I felt that the consequences of falling off at the "standing up in the crack" bit were serious. But fairy snuff, I stand corrected.
An unusual and enjoyable route. The stand-up move to get into the final crack is intimidating but not hard. The rest is ok, so decking really shouldn't be likely at all. Definitely not more than VS, although might feel harder if VS is your top lead grade.