2 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Byne's Route < Cave Arete  |  Moyer's Buttress > Biven's Crack >>

20m. One of a bunch of classic E3 5c routes at Gardom’s. Climb the slabby arete to the right of the cave and lean out to reach a good jug. A tortuous mantelshelf on this (6a for the tall - and great practice for Stanage's King Kong) gains the upper wall just right of the rib, which proves to be much more delicate and fortunately has adequate gear.
FA. Pete Biven 1956. FFA. Dave Morgan 1976. Biven reached the mantelshelf using tension, though the moves were done free. The route then zig-zagged up the final buttress all the way out to Moyer’s and back!


This route is more difficult the taller you are. For those over 6 foot, it feels more like 6b than 5c! Virtually identical to King Kong at Stanage.
Tom B - 04/May/04

Felt harder than 5c but it was a bit warm on the day.
J.Utting - 05/Jun/06

Similar to above - tried this on a hot day and the mantel felt at least 6a. Three 6b climbers couldn't even do the move! Upper wall protection is worse than moyers and has some evil slopers. Not one for a warm summers day.
Joe - 03/Jun/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 21
    hard E4 0 of 7
    E4 0 of 7
    easy E4 0 of 7
    hard E3 6 of 7
    E3 1 of 7
    easy E3 0 of 7
    hard E2 0 of 7
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    hard 6a 0 of 7
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    easy 6a 7 of 7
    hard 5c 0 of 7
    5c 0 of 7
    easy 5c 0 of 7
    hard 5b 0 of 7
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    3 Stars 1 of 7
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