Moyer's Buttress Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Cave Arete < Stormbringer  |  Biven's Crack > Perfect Day >>


22m. A major classic, originally led with just a single chockstone runner and definitely worth four stars. Climb the cracked slab to the overhang then swing around the arete. Wrestle with the rocking-block before making difficult moves to get back on the front face. The upper slab is delicate and sustained though at least protection is adequate nowadays.
FA. Peter Biven 1955. Allan Austin soloed the 2nd ascent a few years later.

USER COMMENTS

upper slab: good cam or good hold, but you can't have both. your choice.
alexis perry - 09/Mar/02

Cunning reach for an undercut on the crux rockover.
Mike - 26/Mar/02

only the best e1 on grit...
nick v - 05/Jun/02

Hard crux but well protected. The top slabs WILL get your heart going. Shame you can't give 4 stars.
Goose - 01/Jan/03

Not as hard as i thought it would be and good gear all the way up (very small to medium cams essential) a bloody classic if ever there was one!
mark s davies - 17/Mar/03

A well protected classic
Budge - 04/Jul/03

Never gives up untill your at the top. Quality
climberjim - 13/Aug/03

This route has got it all - a tricky overhang to start followed by a delicate slab - definitely one of the best routes on grit
hans - 14/Jul/04

Very nice route. Drives home the truth of the old adage: never pass up an opportunity to place bomber gear.
stow - 04/Apr/05

The crux had me gripped! Not too hard a climb but it felt very exposed. Definitely a classic lead that I won't be doing again in a hurry! One to savour even more after you've done it.
Andrew Barker - 16/May/05

Agree with the never lets up comment, but not with the bomber gear one, the only bit of gear i wouldn't have minded falling on was the in-situ sling round the block, all the cams looked crap. Hard move followed by hard move, great route but hard at the grade!
Adam Moroz - 24/Aug/05

good climb, storming gear all the way loads of small and micro cams and bomber superlight wires.
truckmonkey - 03/Jun/06

The gear at the bloc kadn below is bomber, and there is bombe rgear in the slanting crack when you first get o nthe slab, but above that the placements are all very worn, the sort of thing you could probabyl slump on but I dont thikn theyd take a fall (and they were all very small apart form a friend 2 in the obvious slot at the upper crux - which is utterly crap).
Awesome route though.
Si dH - 12/Nov/06

Quality Route! Gear is good all the way, lovely moves. Not as cruxy as I had expected.
DuzWalker - 22/May/08

No in situ sling.
But a hands-off kneebar rest by the block.
Ace!
Luke Danger Allen - 06/Aug/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 164
    hard E2 0 of 55
    E2 0 of 55
    easy E2 2 of 55
    hard E1 22 of 55
    E1 27 of 55
    easy E1 4 of 55
    hard HVS 0 of 55
    HVS 0 of 55
    easy HVS 0 of 55
    hard 5c 0 of 53
    5c 0 of 53
    easy 5c 0 of 53
    hard 5b 5 of 53
    5b 47 of 53
    easy 5b 1 of 53
    hard 5a 0 of 53
    5a 0 of 53
    easy 5a 0 of 53
    3 Stars 55 of 56
    2 Stars 1 of 56
    1 Star 0 of 56
    0 Stars 0 of 56
    Bag of ..... 0 of 56

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