Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 60
20m. A fine route which is usually climbed by its original direct start, though the easier (HVS 5b) left-hand version from the gully is equally worthwhile. Climb the groove to the roof, then traverse left to the finger crack splitting the nose. Whip in a couple of wires then, before your arms pump out, layback up to reach the crest of the buttress above. Finish up this trending slightly right in a great position.
There's nothing wrong with the "cop-out moves", it's still a fine route. Having done both starts, you still get 10 m of very sustained and wobbly 5b with some quite worrying moves so three-stars whichever way. The Direct Start is a stunner though.
Hard, climbed it on a top rope, which i'm glad about, cause i wouldn't be writting this if i hadn't. Pumpy, i found the found the start the hardest bit, as i'm short and it's quite reachy, but theres a hard move up near the top as well.
Hard climbing (poor on footholds) lead to the meat of route. Good route which ever start you take.
Presumably the E1 5c grade is for coming in from the RHS roof crack on undercuts / small crimps? A tad eliminate but more than made up for by the lovely barndoor move to gain the jugs around the corner.