The Eye of Faith Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
 E1 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Elliott's Buttress Indirect < Seventy One White Mice  |  Rhythmic Itch > Elliott's Buttress Direct >>


20m. A fine route which is usually climbed by its original direct start, though the easier (HVS 5b) left-hand version from the gully is equally worthwhile. Climb the groove to the roof, then traverse left to the finger crack splitting the nose. Whip in a couple of wires then, before your arms pump out, layback up to reach the crest of the buttress above. Finish up this trending slightly right in a great position.
FA. Peter Biven 1956

USER COMMENTS

There's nothing wrong with the "cop-out moves", it's still a fine route. Having done both starts, you still get 10 m of very sustained and wobbly 5b with some quite worrying moves so three-stars whichever way. The Direct Start is a stunner though.
Duncan Irving - 02/Sep/04

Hard, climbed it on a top rope, which i'm glad about, cause i wouldn't be writting this if i hadn't. Pumpy, i found the found the start the hardest bit, as i'm short and it's quite reachy, but theres a hard move up near the top as well.
Adam Moroz - 28/Feb/05

Hard climbing (poor on footholds) lead to the meat of route. Good route which ever start you take.
Ropeboy - 07/Nov/06

Presumably the E1 5c grade is for coming in from the RHS roof crack on undercuts / small crimps? A tad eliminate but more than made up for by the lovely barndoor move to gain the jugs around the corner.
moose - 08/May/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 60
    hard E2 0 of 21
    E2 0 of 21
    easy E2 0 of 21
    hard E1 5 of 21
    E1 12 of 21
    easy E1 3 of 21
    hard HVS 1 of 21
    HVS 0 of 21
    easy HVS 0 of 21
    hard 6a 0 of 19
    6a 0 of 19
    easy 6a 0 of 19
    hard 5c 5 of 19
    5c 4 of 19
    easy 5c 7 of 19
    hard 5b 3 of 19
    5b 0 of 19
    easy 5b 0 of 19
    3 Stars 18 of 20
    2 Stars 2 of 20
    1 Star 0 of 20
    0 Stars 0 of 20
    Bag of ..... 0 of 20

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