Waterloo Sunset

3 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Crocodile < Right-hand Crack  |  Finale Groove > Babylon's Groove >>


16m. The last of Gardomís quality E3s, is a bold arete climb which is often green. Start on the right and climb to a break where runners protect the moves up and left to easier ground. The climbing is surprisingly un-arete-like!
FA. Martin Boysen 1977

USER COMMENTS

Most interesting. A very enjoyable route with surprisingly "un-aretey" climbing (vaguely like an mild E3 EOTA or Equilibrium) on the upper section - which is surely best tackled direct instead of heading off left on the line of maxium greeness (in which case fall left for more airspace).
Fiend - 27/Jan/04

miles easier than the crocodile.
dave - 18/Aug/04

agree with fiend in that I don't recall a single 'arete move' really. I found this quite demanding for E3. Was worried about the pedastal/block that meets the butress at the bottom on the right as the line seemed to push you right after completion of the crux. you'd need a quick belayer if you came off here i reckon.
Steve Ramsden - 18/Dec/05

harder than it looks and a fall from the crux would put you near the ground. interesting moves, stay on the arete as fiend says to finish.
luke - 20/Nov/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 30
    hard E4 0 of 10
    E4 0 of 10
    easy E4 2 of 10
    hard E3 1 of 10
    E3 4 of 10
    easy E3 3 of 10
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 0 of 10
    easy E2 0 of 10
    hard 6a 0 of 10
    6a 0 of 10
    easy 6a 0 of 10
    hard 5c 2 of 10
    5c 8 of 10
    easy 5c 0 of 10
    hard 5b 0 of 10
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    easy 5b 0 of 10
    3 Stars 7 of 10
    2 Stars 3 of 10
    1 Star 0 of 10
    0 Stars 0 of 10
    Bag of ..... 0 of 10

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