Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
The rib right of the groove. Staple bolts.
I thought following the red dotted line was a 5+ route; it is possible to go round left on yellow rock but that doesn't seem 2 star climbing.
The tricky traverse to the line is also fantastic. There are some bolts to protect thist traverse. The line is good and has staple bolts. The crux maybe is the last move to clip the lower off from a polished hold.
Following the bolt line direct (via a short vertical crack) is definitely 5+ (as per the local guide). A photo in the 2011 guide shows someone taking the detour to the left, which makes it about 5, and is the line I took assuming I was cheating!