Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 217
Adjacent Routes
18m. The tall left-hand arete of the buttress is excellent and mild. Climb the central crack and make a short traverse left to the arete at the earliest opportunity. This is then followed throughout with good runners in the breaks. USER COMMENTS
Unbelievably good - one of the best routes I've ever done.
Good location - quiet - hard to keep just to the arete tho'.
Quality route. Lovely and delicate. Not so sure about "mild at the grade" though. I guess it would be if you're a strong gritstone slab climber. Protection is good, but you can normally only place the kit after you've made the move you'd like to have protected (hence the VS 4b grade I guess).
Definately worth fighting through the undergrowth for this one.
It's much easier to walk along the top of the crag at Gardom's - too much like hard work to scramble along the bottom between the buttresses!
Just read a couple of old guidebooks, 1970 and 1981, both have this route traversing left at 8 feet, ie below the flake of Apple Crack. Tried this yesterday, much harder, at least 4c, but with gear above the head.
i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
I climbed this before the advent of Rockfax (but later than 1981) and I traversed onto the arete at 3m. Seems more logical to get onto the arete as early as possible.
A quality route with a good feeling of exposure for the grade, without having to change your underwear
Simply perfect, good gear, yet nice exposure :D
Definitely best to traverse in the first break, not higher up. I say the grade is fair enough, possibly 4c. Very nice!
4c felt about right. A good route, my first after 8 weeks since breaking my back. Worth the wait!
Rather contrived and eliminate. Worth maybe 1* in my book.
Contrived and eliminate?? That couldn't be further from the truth. The line is perfect, natural and in a wonderful position. The climbing is excellent. Deserves the 3 stars and miserable grumps should stay away. LOL
Climbing the face of the narrow buttress makes it easier and very mild at the grade.
As everyone says, just lovely. Great position, comfortable jams, friction, high posing factor.
yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half. i stayed in the middle of the slab not the arete which felt more like 4c...all very pleasant. |