Apple Arete

3 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< N.M.C. Crack < Apple Arete Direct  |  Apple Crack > Cheeky Monkey >>

18m. The tall left-hand arete of the buttress is excellent and mild. Climb the central crack and make a short traverse left to the arete at the earliest opportunity. This is then followed throughout with good runners in the breaks.
FA. David Penlington 1952


Unbelievably good - one of the best routes I've ever done.
Simon C - 05/Jun/02

Good location - quiet - hard to keep just to the arete tho'.
Goose - 01/Jan/03

Quality route. Lovely and delicate. Not so sure about "mild at the grade" though. I guess it would be if you're a strong gritstone slab climber. Protection is good, but you can normally only place the kit after you've made the move you'd like to have protected (hence the VS 4b grade I guess).
James McN - 14/Jul/03

Definately worth fighting through the undergrowth for this one.
Keith - 15/Jul/03

It's much easier to walk along the top of the crag at Gardom's - too much like hard work to scramble along the bottom between the buttresses!
Nick Smith - 15/Jul/03

Just read a couple of old guidebooks, 1970 and 1981, both have this route traversing left at 8 feet, ie below the flake of Apple Crack. Tried this yesterday, much harder, at least 4c, but with gear above the head.
Simon Caldwell - 04/Aug/03

i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
DaveF - 15/Sep/03

i didn't find this easy for VS but it was my first VS after a layoff due to injury so I could be wrong. The middle section is superb.
DaveF - 15/Sep/03

I climbed this before the advent of Rockfax (but later than 1981) and I traversed onto the arete at 3m. Seems more logical to get onto the arete as early as possible.
Nick Eaton - 01/Apr/04

A quality route with a good feeling of exposure for the grade, without having to change your underwear
David Hewitt - 18/May/04

Simply perfect, good gear, yet nice exposure :D
slack---line - 19/Mar/05

Definitely best to traverse in the first break, not higher up. I say the grade is fair enough, possibly 4c. Very nice!
Si dH - 16/May/05

4c felt about right. A good route, my first after 8 weeks since breaking my back. Worth the wait!
Iggy_B - 02/Oct/05

Rather contrived and eliminate. Worth maybe 1* in my book.
TobyA - 06/May/06

Contrived and eliminate?? That couldn't be further from the truth. The line is perfect, natural and in a wonderful position. The climbing is excellent. Deserves the 3 stars and miserable grumps should stay away. LOL
Mat - 12/Jun/06

Climbing the face of the narrow buttress makes it easier and very mild at the grade.
Sticking to the holds on the arete is a little harder and definately better, although requires more discipline (guess thats why "contrived and eliminate" in a previous comment).
Narrowness of the arete/buttress does give a pleasant degree of exposure although never really feels "out there" - possibly because of potential escape rightwards (to a vdiff) on all but the final positions.
kristian birchall - 18/Jun/06

As everyone says, just lovely. Great position, comfortable jams, friction, high posing factor.
Iain Thow - 17/Mar/07

yer very nice in the upper section but very escapable to the rght in bottom half. i stayed in the middle of the slab not the arete which felt more like 4c...all very pleasant.
shaun walby - 03/May/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 217
    hard HVS 0 of 73
    HVS 0 of 73
    easy HVS 0 of 73
    hard VS 2 of 73
    VS 34 of 73
    easy VS 26 of 73
    hard HS 11 of 73
    HS 0 of 73
    easy HS 0 of 73
    hard 4c 0 of 70
    4c 0 of 70
    easy 4c 11 of 70
    hard 4b 9 of 70
    4b 43 of 70
    easy 4b 7 of 70
    hard 4a 0 of 70
    4a 0 of 70
    easy 4a 0 of 70
    3 Stars 60 of 74
    2 Stars 12 of 74
    1 Star 2 of 74
    0 Stars 0 of 74
    Bag of ..... 0 of 74

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