Quan es fa fosc Top 50

3 Stars
 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Supernova, Spits 'n Giggles < Albahida (Gubia Normal)  |  Chitas marchitas > Charly danone >>


This excellent variation follows the steeper rib to the left of Albahida. The main three pitches are well bolted, but a few wires are needed for the first pitch unless you are happy soloing it. 1) 3. As for Albahida. 2) 5. Climb direct above the stance to a belay ledge.
3) 5. Move left and follow the line up a rib.
4) 5. One more pitch leads to an abseil point. Abseil off, or continue up into Albahida.

USER COMMENTS

Great line and photgraphic! It's at this point you fall in love with sexo debil because you can see the whole route from this line
Martin Panton - 10/Dec/04

Superb quality and position, steep but juggy, highly recommended
John Mackenzie - 17/May/06

The pitches are longer than 30 meters. You need a double rope or a 70 meter rope to abseil. We had a strage experience when we wanted to abseil from the top with a 60 meter rope and we had to stop about 2 or 3 meters above the next belay.
Nicolas Mériaux - 02/Jan/07

I believe the 4th pitch is wrongly marked on the photo. The bolts go straight up the (splendid) rib rather than going left into the slanting corner. And the length is 40m rather than 30m.
Simon Brown - 23/Mar/07

BEWARE! 4th pitch longer than 30m. 2x60m ropes gets you to a rusty old ring in a recess along with some thin threads 5m above the belay for pitch 2. Top pitch is bold with great exposure and only 8 bolts in 35m. Excellent route.
Angie Reid - 03/Dec/07

A 70m rope is needed for the abseils. The top pitch goes up the rib, not via the corner as in the topo. The route is excellent though
Mark Wood - 06/Dec/07

Excellent multipitch route.
In pitch 3 starts another route on the left that follows the corner indicated on the topo. Bolts looks new. The original route goes straight following the rib.

Another day I will investigate the new route
pmmp - 07/Aug/09

Excellent climbing. Finished by the last 3 pitches of Albahida and walked down.
The route to the left seems to be "Spits and Giggles", 6a.
Kai Wurster - 11/Oct/10

Pitch 3 is a little over 35m, pitch 4 is 40m. A 70m rope is probably not sufficient for the abseil descent, unless it's a long 70m!
Simon Caldwell - 12/Apr/11

Is the route called "Quan es fa fosc" or "Quan es sa Jose"?
Simon Caldwell - 12/Apr/11

Nice one, the climbing is not too hard. But be beware to find the right line. Left of the route seems to be at least another one, also fully bolted and going up to the middle of pitch 4. Don't know which grade, maybe it's in the new guide. Anyway: it starts at the 3rd pith but going far mor left. And ends where I said 2 or 3 meters left of Quan es fa fosc.
And pitch 4 is definitely longer than 30 m, except you're going to use the belay of the route to the left, then you'll habe one pitch more...
Christian Bach - 15/Apr/11

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