Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 26
'The Law of Desire' follows the right-hand side of the main ridge at a very amenable grade. It is fully bolted and very popular. The main drawback is people descending down it while you are on your way up. For this reason, a helmet is advised. 1) 5+. Take the left-hand line of bolts, just right of a corner. 2) 5+. Continue in roughly the same line. This pitch can be combined with pitch one. 3) 4+. Continue up the line marked by silver dots, to a belay at the top of an open rib. 4) 5. Continue to a well-positioned stance on a cleaned ledge. There is another belay 5m higher. 5) 4+. Move right and follow closely-spaced bolts up a wall on great holds to a possible belay on a stance behind some trees. However, it is better to continue for another 15m to a twin-bolted stance in a little open corner.
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We did it in Jan '03, pitches 3 and 4 which are relatively new seemed a lot longer than 50m in total. We climbed 5 pitches altogether although we belayed on an abseil station at one point. The top pitch was a bit pushy for 5, propably worth 5+. We finished up Gubia Normal and walked down the back past the 3 headed dog. Grand day out.
Fantastic long route!!!! From the stance of pitch 4 you can continue to the top moving right and up. This pitch is about 20m and 4+. Next pitch is about 15m and 4+. The following pitch has a hard start and is very long (about 35m) and is a great pitch. I give a grade of 5/5+ for the start. You can continue to the top moving right and up with easy climbing. There is and old peg but after that you'll need some gear. This final pithc is about 30m. Fantastic views from the top.
First pitch very polished.
Superb sustained climbing with the crux on pitch 6 near the top and minor amendments to the guidebook as follows:
Pitch 1. I agree with pmmp; this is now so polished that it's harder than pitch 2, 5+.
Excellent climb. Agree with Brian Dickson on pitch descriptions or you can split pitch 6 as the top half is a long way out of sight of the belay. PS the dog has been absent both times we have been past the farm.
Every time I climb this route I found pitch 1 harder than de last time, due to polished holds especially for the feet. Now is even harder since the broken of a crux hold in the middle of the pitch.
I would definitely climb the last pitch from the higher stance otherwise the rope will drag. Note that if you want to top out and walk down the far side, take some slings for the 3+ pitch (with an overhang on it!), it is a long scramble to the summit (1-1.5 hours) and then an hour down the dirt road back to the parking. Worth doing for the views.
Pitch 1 definitely 5+ as per current guide, slightly harder than pitch 2.