Princesa

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 6c

Adjacent Routes
<< Hambre eterna < Via Llum de Lluna  |  Sol Solet > Placa aspera >>


An inspiring route that tackles the full length of the back wall of the bay. Start on the grey slabs below and left of the vast orange scoop in the back wall. Belay at the tree-line or scramble up to where the wall steepens. The first bolt is an old one.
1) 6a. Climb the wall to a stance below a steeper section of wall.
2) 6c (6a/A0). Make a hard pull past the steep section (slightly easier on the left) and continue to a stance.
3) 5+. Climb to a stance on a ledge with trees.
4) 6a. Climb straight past an overhang to a ledge (optional stance). Traverse right to a small stance below a corner.
5) 5+. Traverse right for 8m then climb directly up the wall to the cliff top.
Descent - Single 70m rope minimum. Abseil from top of Sol Solet to the shared belay with Princesa. Continue down Princesa to tree ledge stance. Down Princesa to top of second pitch. Two further abseils down Princesa to the ground.

USER COMMENTS

Beware! An excellent line though on windy days significant rockfall comes down the left side of the wall from the trees blowing in the wind high above hense the rock scars at the bottom.
Martin Panton - 10/Dec/04

Yep watch out for climbing it in tropical storms as well. Abbing down with lightning and thunder was pretty scary
benjamin Harding - 16/Dec/04

The line drawn on the Rockfax topo is completely wrong above pitch 2.5. The line continues past an optional belay vertically upwards past a tree ledge, belay 3, past a 2 foot overhang, not bulge, to an optional belay then slightly right before a 10 foot traverse to a belay (4) at the foot of a left facing corner. Then traverse 10 m right to a COMFORTABLE belay on a tree, 4b. A final pitch (6) goes up and left to top, 5+. Linking pitch 5 and 6 is not advised unless climbing with double ropes due to large catenary/rope drag.
Recommended grades 6a+,6a+ A0 three bolts,5+,6a+,4+, 5+/6a. 4 stars.
I find it a huge disappointment that Rockfax do not take the trouble to make the line trace on the photo correspond to the description nor the main features. The line as described crosses the obvious hourglass corner at the top of the corner not at the base, ie 50 feet further left and 120 feet higher.
There are other lines of bolts to add confusion or alternatives for both ascent and rap.
william Oliver Hill - 29/Apr/09

I have since found that the '100 Mejores Escaladas de Catalunya' 2005, has a good topo that gives the same route I have described above with the same belays: P1 30m 5+, P2 30m 6c 6a oblig,P3 50m 5+,P4 40m 6a, P5 10m 5+ optional,P6 30m 5+. On average the grades are half a letter tough.
Rappels points from belay 6,4,3,2.
This guide also has the trace in the photo in the wrong place.
An extract from Tito Nunyez on Avice for Multi-pitch climbs: Guidebooks and Topos:
'To research exhaustively before a more or less serious route is not absolutely necessary, but it helps avoiding epics, rushing about like a rabid dog. Obviously the better our experience and training, the less the need to gather topos, data and advice, but the easiest way of saving ourselves epics is to consult a good guide book.

Its trustworthiness depends on the professionalism and rigour of the author, which is not always what you would desire. In Europe it is not uncommon that he has not repeated even a third of the routes he describes.'
william Oliver Hill - 30/Apr/09

I have to defend the authors here a bit, have been living on the island for more than 2 years, climbed extensively and hardly found any errors in this guidebook.
But you are right, line on the picture for princesa is wrong, I've sent a corrected version of it to Alan about a year ago...
The other bolt line you are talking about is probable at the arette at the very end (straight instead of going to the right into the slabs which should give an exposed 6c/7a finish.
But yeah, as i said before, I hardly found any other mistakes in that guidebook, so you probably shouldn't be so harsh.
Manfred Eckschlager - 11/May/09

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