Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
An inspiring route that tackles the full length of the back wall of the bay. Start on the grey slabs below and left of the vast orange scoop in the back wall. Belay at the treeline or scramble up to where the wall steepens. The first bolt is an old one.</br>1) 6a. Climb the wall to a stance below a steeper section of wall.</br>2) 6c (6a/A0 ). Make a hard pull past the steep section (slightly easier on the left) and continue to a stance.</br>3) 5+. Climb to a stance on a ledge with trees.</br>4) 6a. Climb straight past an overhang to a ledge (optional stance). Traverse right to a small stance below a corner.</br>5) 5+. Traverse right for 8m then climb directly up the wall to the cliff top.</br>Descent - Single 70m rope minimum. Abseil from top of Sol Solet to the shared belay with Princesa. Continue down Princesa to a tree ledge stance. Continue down Princesa to the top of the second pitch. Two further abseils down Princesa to the ground.
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Beware! An excellent line though on windy days significant rockfall comes down the left side of the wall from the trees blowing in the wind high above hense the rock scars at the bottom.
Yep watch out for climbing it in tropical storms as well. Abbing down with lightning and thunder was pretty scary
The line drawn on the Rockfax topo is completely wrong above pitch 2.5. The line continues past an optional belay vertically upwards past a tree ledge, belay 3, past a 2 foot overhang, not bulge, to an optional belay then slightly right before a 10 foot traverse to a belay (4) at the foot of a left facing corner. Then traverse 10 m right to a COMFORTABLE belay on a tree, 4b. A final pitch (6) goes up and left to top, 5+. Linking pitch 5 and 6 is not advised unless climbing with double ropes due to large catenary/rope drag.
I have since found that the '100 Mejores Escaladas de Catalunya' 2005, has a good topo that gives the same route I have described above with the same belays: P1 30m 5+, P2 30m 6c 6a oblig,P3 50m 5+,P4 40m 6a, P5 10m 5+ optional,P6 30m 5+. On average the grades are half a letter tough.
I have to defend the authors here a bit, have been living on the island for more than 2 years, climbed extensively and hardly found any errors in this guidebook.