Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
An inspiring route that tackles the full length of the back wall of the bay. Start on the grey slabs below and left of the vast orange scoop in the back wall. Belay at the tree-line or scramble up to where the wall steepens. The first bolt is an old one.
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Beware! An excellent line though on windy days significant rockfall comes down the left side of the wall from the trees blowing in the wind high above hense the rock scars at the bottom.
Yep watch out for climbing it in tropical storms as well. Abbing down with lightning and thunder was pretty scary
The line drawn on the Rockfax topo is completely wrong above pitch 2.5. The line continues past an optional belay vertically upwards past a tree ledge, belay 3, past a 2 foot overhang, not bulge, to an optional belay then slightly right before a 10 foot traverse to a belay (4) at the foot of a left facing corner. Then traverse 10 m right to a COMFORTABLE belay on a tree, 4b. A final pitch (6) goes up and left to top, 5+. Linking pitch 5 and 6 is not advised unless climbing with double ropes due to large catenary/rope drag.
I have since found that the '100 Mejores Escaladas de Catalunya' 2005, has a good topo that gives the same route I have described above with the same belays: P1 30m 5+, P2 30m 6c 6a oblig,P3 50m 5+,P4 40m 6a, P5 10m 5+ optional,P6 30m 5+. On average the grades are half a letter tough.
I have to defend the authors here a bit, have been living on the island for more than 2 years, climbed extensively and hardly found any errors in this guidebook.