Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
160m. Climb the face for one pitch then trend left to climb the face direct. The individual pitch grades are 5, 4, 4+, 4, 6a, 4. Not in current guidebook.
There is some confusion between this route and IX Capítulos. The noticeboard on the walk in shows IX Capituos going straight up and Sali branching off right at the second belay. I've put a picture of the board on flickr (my name there is brownhenley).
I believe that's the description of IX Capitulos. We climbed it a couple of days ago and were first put off by the first pitch - old bolts with no hangers, shrubbery - not good at all. The rest of the route correlates 100% with what you've written. The bolts on the third pitch are the old 8mm. The start of the route is marked by the wooden plaque, so I believe it's standard to climb the first unprotected (sling some bushes) pitch, but it might be better to scramble to the first bolted belay from the right side (looking in), there appears to be a low-angle ramp/shelf going all the way.
Definitely approach IX Capitulos from higher up on the right and scramble up and left to the first bolt belay. Thereafter as per Simon Brown's description. Can get down in 2 abseils from the top. Not sure if anyone does Sali as not bolted..