<< None < None | Vía Gene > El Don de Volar >>
E4. A direct line on good rock up the left-hand side of the buttress, starting 20m left of where Gene is scratched on the rock. There is some fixed gear (and bolts on the stances) but it is not a sport route so take a rack including cams.
1) 5. A long pitch.
2) 6c. This one has some chipped holds.
3) 6c+. Good climbing on quality rock. Watch the starting moves above a ledge and there is a big runout in the middle and old bolts for the last left traverse.
4) 6b. Short but good and well protected.
5) 6b. Another good pitch with a poorly protected start (upside down peg) then easy climbing. Belay on the left.
6) 6b. A nice slab with threads then easier to the top of the wall and a junction with Gene, just before its last pitch.
A good, quite serious route worth doing it.
P1 very long, not so good.
P2 surely 6c/c+ some chipped holds.
P3 wonderful rock and movements, but dangerous unprotected start (ledge), big runout in the middle and old bolts in the last left traverse.
P4 short but good, well protected.
P5 beautiful start, again poorly protected (upside down peg) then easy climbing. Belay on the left.
P6 beautiful slab with threads then easier to the top of the wall.
Decent: scramble the arete for about 50 meters to the right, then one 60m or two 30m rappel. Walk down towards big tree, another 60m rappel (or two) to the base.
Cams 0.4 - 1 useful here and there.
elvio - 11/Jan/11
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