Route Grade Votings
An excellent, fully bolted route, giving sustained, fingery climbing on perfect rock. Start beneath the line of new bolts up a nondescript wall in the next bay to the left of Valencianos.</br>1) 6a, 45m. Follow the bolts up the wall to a good ledge.</br>2) 6a+, 20m. Climb the concave wall and make a tough move around the bulge. A tricky pitch.</br>3) 6b+, 40m. The wall above has a fingery start and a desperate second clip. Things then ease considerably and enjoyable climbing leads to a stance in a break.</br>4) 6b+, 40m. Traverse left, then steeply past some holes to pull out at the base of a smooth slab. Thin climbing weaves around the bolts before easier ground and a shallow groove reach a calcite stance with an assortment of belays.</br>5) 6c+, 30m. Traverse left to a steep crack line. Follow this and make a desperate and blind pull onto the wall above. Move out right to easier ground, before another fingery shield - fortunately easier than it looks - gains easy ground and a belay.</br>Descent - Abseil down a new set of abseil stations off-line to the left of the route (facing in).
Does anyone know how far apart the abseil stations are? I'm wondering whether I can get down using a single 70m rope.
The route is quite diagonal, John. There is a line of belays off route to the left (looking in) which run in a fairly straight line down from the finish.
A great route, with good climbing throughout--better perhaps than the nearby Gorilas. The final pitch, as the grade indicates, is qualitatively harder than the rest, requiring, in our case, a little figuring out from the comfort of a bolt!