Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 4
A line up the walls and ramps to the left of the easier ground taken by Valencianos. The route starts at the base of the Valencianos ramp. The first five pitches are fully bolted. There is less gear on the upper section so take a small rack.</br>1) 6a, 45m. As for Gorilas to the big ledge. Walk right to a JD symbol. 2) 6a, 45m. 3) 5, 30m. 4) 5+, 35m. 5) 6a+, 10m. </br>6) 6a, 40m. 7) 6a+, 35m. </br>Descent - At the top of pitch 7 (the layback crack) traverse right and slightly down for about 8 m to new chain belay. 3 x 50m abseils get you back on the big ledge.
Apparently this has been fully equipped now.
A quality route which gradually escalates in quality. From pitch 3 onwards the climbing is interesting and on excellent rock. The first 4 pitches are fully equipped with parabolts. The later pitches include quite a few pegs and we used some Rocks [1 each of 3 to 7 will be plenty] and Friends 1 to 2.5 although it would be OK to just use fixed equipment. We thought there was some 6b climbing as in the local guide and a particularly difficult move to start the last pitch but with a well positioned parabolt. Great route and we had this massive crag to ourselves on a sunny and warm Sunday.
Meant to say about the misleading, new line of parabolts going straight up on pitch 6. The correct line moves right slightly to an obvious parabolt and peg.
A good climb, took about 6 hours start to finish. Mostly bolted but some gear advisable for last 2 pitches. 1st pitch takes you onto big ledge. Walk back and right to start of main climbing next to JD symbol scratched on rock. Abseil station not obvious, at the top of pitch 7 (the layback crack) traverse right and slightly down for about 8 - 10 metres to new chain belay. 3 x 50 metre abseils get you back on the ledge next to start of pitch 2.