Flor de Luna
<< Jack Daniels < Rocinante | None > None >>
A popular climb, with an easy approach and descent (well relatively), on good rock, and not too long - at least when compared to the stuff further to the left! Start in the bay at the right-hand side of the face.
1) 4+, 40m. Trend slightly right up the side of the buttress.
2) 4+, 45m. Continue in the same line to a good ledge.
3) 6a+, 25m. Follow the right-trending wall and groove (crux) to easier ground an a little higher a belay on a good tree.
4) 5, 45m. Move easily right then climb to the right of the crest of the buttress before pulling back left to a stance.
5) 6a, 40m. Continue up the buttress (tricky but soon easing) then the groove on the right and up to a stance.
6) 5+, 40m. Climb a little higher then follow the ledge out left to its end and then climb a short exposed wall to more ledges.
7) 5, 45m. Originally the route finished up the grassy ramps than run up an left to reach the Valencianos escape route, though it is much better to trend right onto the rounded buttress and climb this to a sudden finish.
Not in current guidebook.
FA. J.Matas, J.Lorenzo 1978
There are actually three pitches before the 6a+ crux pitch, if you belay at the obvious double bolts each time, rather than the two described. Lengths 30m, 30m, 25m; grades 4+, 4+, 5.
At the end of the 6a+ pitch you belay on a good bolt and wire, rather than the rather small tree.
Andy2 - 10/Apr/05
Agree with the above. On pitch 6, make sure you go far enough otherwise you can't do the last pitch in a oner.
The 2nd abseil on the descent is marked as 35 metres rather than 30 - just in case you are taking only a single 60 m rope.
Great cliff - quiet.
Heike - 03/Jan/06
i may have been a bit lax but i found route finding on this route pretty tricky. on the last pitch i ended up on some desperate aid pitch, but thankfully it brought us to right spot to finish. getting off is very quick if you can follow someone who knows the way! and the last abseil is ok on 60m rope, but only just, so tie a knot in it!
ianb - 13/Apr/11
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