Porthole Direct

2 Stars
Technical
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Telescope Tunnel < Porthole Buttress  |  Captain Birdseye > Blind Eye >>


12m. Start right of the chimney and climb up into a shallow corner, passing the porthole, to a good ledge. Finish up the crucial leaning and narrowing crack just to the left.
FA. Gilbert Ellis 1951

USER COMMENTS

A delicate start, followed by an interesting middle, to a gripping finish add up to a rather tasty route.
D Berry - 26/Jul/03

my first grit VS! lovely route, continually interesting and well protected, remember to take slings. slightly intimidating exit. quality.
Nicola Seal - 17/Apr/05

Believe crux is 4c as although the jam is solid you have to trust a vertical smear that starts at waist height. Rather delicate...
tchnorton - 01/Jun/05

A gem of a route but I can't see why it's VS 4b. It's well protected and there are good rests between each of the sections. VS 4c or perhaps HS 4b.
chris - 12/Aug/05

Any idea if you're allowed to use the left arete to get up the mid-height corner? I did as it seemed a bit tough without and would be a bit contrived if it's not in as it's so close, but it's so positive it felt like cheating and I wish I'd tried it without!
cider nut - 05/Nov/05

Compelling line and strangely awkward.
GrahamD - 14/Apr/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 110
    hard HVS 0 of 52
    HVS 0 of 52
    easy HVS 1 of 52
    hard VS 4 of 52
    VS 39 of 52
    easy VS 3 of 52
    hard HS 5 of 52
    HS 0 of 52
    easy HS 0 of 52
    hard 5a 0 of 10
    5a 0 of 10
    easy 5a 0 of 10
    hard 4c 1 of 10
    4c 6 of 10
    easy 4c 3 of 10
    hard 4b 0 of 10
    4b 0 of 10
    easy 4b 0 of 10
    3 Stars 1 of 48
    2 Stars 39 of 48
    1 Star 8 of 48
    0 Stars 0 of 48
    Bag of ..... 0 of 48

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