Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 110
12m. Start right of the chimney and climb up into a shallow corner, passing the porthole, to a good ledge. Finish up the crucial leaning and narrowing crack just to the left.
A delicate start, followed by an interesting middle, to a gripping finish add up to a rather tasty route.
my first grit VS! lovely route, continually interesting and well protected, remember to take slings. slightly intimidating exit. quality.
Believe crux is 4c as although the jam is solid you have to trust a vertical smear that starts at waist height. Rather delicate...
A gem of a route but I can't see why it's VS 4b. It's well protected and there are good rests between each of the sections. VS 4c or perhaps HS 4b.
Any idea if you're allowed to use the left arete to get up the mid-height corner? I did as it seemed a bit tough without and would be a bit contrived if it's not in as it's so close, but it's so positive it felt like cheating and I wish I'd tried it without!
Compelling line and strangely awkward.