Espolón de la Pared Negra

2 Stars
 5

Adjacent Routes
<< Juan Iborra < Vía Nuria  |  Santa Faz > Padre Bueno >>


A good climb, interesting and quite popular. Start at a scratched arrow up and right of the mine-workings.
1) 4+, 30m. Climb the slab and short steep groove then a series of short walls before traversing left to a good stance.
2) 5, 30m. Up the wall - tricky in places, with spaced bolts - to the groove passing the left end of the roofs. Up this to a stance.
3) 4, 20m. Trend left up slabs more easily then climb up into the base of a groove and up this to a small stance.
4) 4+, 30m. Continue up the groove then trend left and right up the wall to the big roof. Move left to a recess and climb the right wall to easy ground.
FA. J.Montesinos, Brugarolas, M.Jaén 1962

USER COMMENTS

A fine outing. Climbed it last week and really enjoyed it. The fixed gear is not as generous as other routes. We took a rack and used a fair number of wires. The climbing and the line was really good.
Chris Heald - 28/Mar/05

Also....all the pitches were longer than the length given in RF
Chris Heald - 28/Mar/05

Great climb. The fourth pitch is low on bolts and taxing for F4+. The final wall is a shock at the end.
Harry Ikin - 02/Apr/07

Super route, even better than Derecha del Espolón. Spaced gear especially on pitch 2, but pitch 4 has presumably had some bolts added since the guidebook as it was the only one that didn't have spaced gear!
Simon Caldwell - 15/Apr/08

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