Sail Buttress

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Midshipman < Cold Compass  |  Roger the Cabin Boy I > Ratline >>

A slippery classic. Start below the steep arete and climb up and right to a good ledge. Use the deep horizontal crack to aid a shuffling traverse out to the left to gain the final easier slab.
FA. Bert Smith 1934


'Roger the cabin Boy' is a worthwhile variation that should be mentioned. Ulikely as it looks, it goes up the steep groove a few moves before the traverse left and is only about a grade harder.
Steve - 13/Dec/01

If the final slab above the traverse was more challenging it would be worth 3 stars.
D Berry - 23/Feb/03

I think if you were pushing your grade on this route it would be amazing. If it is well within your ability it is good but a bit of a one move wonder.
dave F - 28/Apr/03

nice! the traverse is a bit scary, but really well protected. Seems harder than topsail, but still only HS
ceri - 27/Oct/03

It looks like a VS, but all the protection is there so don't be put off.
David Hewitt - 05/Apr/04

Really good route, but the upper slab is disappointingly easy.
Victim of Mathematics - 05/May/05

A cracker, the traverse had me a little anxious!
lps - 28/Jul/05

First HS. The traverse is longer than it seems from below, though well protected and on good jams. Felt fair for the grade.
mark20 - 06/Jan/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 177
    hard VS 0 of 60
    VS 0 of 60
    easy VS 1 of 60
    hard HS 12 of 60
    HS 38 of 60
    easy HS 4 of 60
    hard5 of 60
    0 of 60
    easy0 of 60
    hard 4c 0 of 59
    4c 0 of 59
    easy 4c 2 of 59
    hard 4b 6 of 59
    4b 32 of 59
    easy 4b 15 of 59
    hard 4a 4 of 59
    4a 0 of 59
    easy 4a 0 of 59
    3 Stars 21 of 58
    2 Stars 26 of 58
    1 Star 10 of 58
    0 Stars 1 of 58
    Bag of ..... 0 of 58

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