2 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Amazing Grace < Sail Chimney  |  Monument Chimney Crack > Monument Chimney >>

12m. A classic and low in the grade - except for the short! Approach the overhang via a crack and groove (big thread) and grope then power through the bulge using the flake. The slab above is easy by comparison! Photo page 337.
FA. David Penlington 1951


A one move route. But what a move! Go for it.
Martin - 24/Jun/02

Totally agree. It is a great move though. Quite intimidating at first...then it all gets nice again.
RobS - 21/Oct/02

A great move certainly; but requires more than one for 3 stars IMHO.
D Berry - 23/Feb/03

According to my second the niche under the roof also makes a very comfortable seat!
D Berry - 23/Feb/03

Bit of a one move wonder. A nice one move though.
RobD - 24/Feb/03

It was great!
Mike Lee - 10/Jul/03

Feel those stars............
James McN - 15/Sep/03

i was up for this, but then i climbed it and got to the top thinking why? its good, clean, nice, safe as a house, not a grovel or thruch. But not worth vs, or 3 stars, was over before it started.
rob e - 27/Oct/03

Unlike Rob, I don't object to good, clean, safe as house, not a grovel or thrutch routes, so I thought Topsail was good.
Bit harder for the short (like me) who have to work a bit harder for the hold, but great for a one move wonder route, and still recomendable.
ander - 11/Feb/04

Move requires a bit of commitment and if you want you can put a small friend in the flake and reverse to a rest....good route mind, but not 3 stars
Simon Ash - 03/May/04

I've done this route a couple of times and i do like it but in my opinion its only worth top end HS 4b and i'm a shortarse.
Adam Moroz - 12/Dec/04

Agree with Adam on the grade. Easy to get up to crux, bomber gear, one move wonder. 1 star IMO.
Mutl3y - 14/Jul/05

Has someone been chipping on this route as there is a suspiciously good hex placement that's not been there long. A great one move wonder around HVS 5c... :)
James Smith - 03/Sep/05

HVS 5c? Absolutely Not. Adam has it right. If you want HVS 5c (and there aint many) try Orpheus Wall.
jonny2vests - 04/Sep/05

The underside of the overhang appears to be eroding at an alarming rate - presumably by people putting friends in the wide crack. Please try and avoid this - a sling round the thread is surely all you need
chris_moor - 29/Sep/06

Was there recently and thought the hex placment in topsail had been chipped, the grit is very orange, compared to remaininf rock.
Ian - 10/Oct/06

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 334
    hard HVS 0 of 115
    HVS 0 of 115
    easy HVS 2 of 115
    hard VS 0 of 115
    VS 28 of 115
    easy VS 55 of 115
    hard HS 30 of 115
    HS 0 of 115
    easy HS 0 of 115
    hard 5a 0 of 111
    5a 0 of 111
    easy 5a 2 of 111
    hard 4c 6 of 111
    4c 55 of 111
    easy 4c 26 of 111
    hard 4b 22 of 111
    4b 0 of 111
    easy 4b 0 of 111
    3 Stars 49 of 108
    2 Stars 45 of 108
    1 Star 11 of 108
    0 Stars 3 of 108
    Bag of ..... 0 of 108

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.