Orpheus Wall

2 Stars
Strong
 HVS 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Pillar Wall < The Bow  |  Peaches > Monument Gully >>


14m. Climb the thin crack just right of the arete to reach the leaning wall and a horizontal slot. Good Friends here protect the bewildering moves (or outright leap) to jugs; make a rapid exit to easy ground. High in the grade and almost worth E1, the route is one of the most frigged in the Peak and sadly the runner placements are starting to suffer.
FA. Joe Brown 1950

USER COMMENTS

strenious throughout
brianb - 21/Feb/02

A lot harder than Ratline
Budge - 12/Jul/02

tried it a few years ago, aced it this month. definitely a beast but harder if your feet are small - the heelhook becomes a toe hook with size 9 feet which makes the underclings more positive
uncle nick - 25/Jul/02

Mad as toast!
mark s davies - 07/Jun/03

much easier to solo than to lead!
davep - 23/Jun/03

I don't see why it is easier to solo. The gear is a couple of friends which take seconds to place in a not too strenuous position. The moves are tough though, but it feels great when you get the jugs!
Dave F - 11/Jul/03

'Ard as nails!
Alex Purser - 16/Apr/04

Got pumped figuring out how to climb this, so I just slapped from the slot to the break before it was too late. It worked but it's not the sort of thing I expect to find on a HVS
Tyler - 29/Sep/04

Best route ive climbed in a long time spent ages looking at the bottom bit trying to figure it out but as soon as i was roped up i got straight up to the break no sweat. i found a left footed heel hook and a right hand pull in the crack below the break the best way up this beast
Adam Moroz - 12/Dec/04

heelhooks? leg jams? get the sidepull/undercut, left foot smear, right step up and pull hard. Probably worth E1, but safe as houses. Great fun but tough move.
bomb - 10/Apr/05

far to short the end comes all to soon and its naff when when you get there. good route though my first hvs.
furrymonkey - 24/Apr/05

Dyno for it!!!!! I did it on Monday and it's much easier than anyother way!!!!

Great route though!!!

Scottish
Scottish - 03/May/05

A hard climb to onsite - it takes a while to work out the sequence.
It doesn't make sense that Ratline is E1 and this is HVS. Ratline is technically easier, less sustained/strenuous and has better gear. I say Ratine=HVS, Orpheus Wall=E1 ;)
Glen - 04/Sep/05

this route was a saving grace on a rainy two days this week. i did a left foot toe hook and just press with right hand to get the jugs - a really nice move for the grade!
lleyton - 17/Mar/06

Hmmmm... Hard 5c move with perfect gear, above a slightly interesting start, and followed by nothing at all. Onsight, HVS sounds about right, but if there was another 2m of decent climbing either before or after the crux, it'd probably be E1.

Definitely much harder than Ratline, but the gear's so much better! I'd still give Rat E1 and this HVS.
Pythonist - 19/May/07

Do-able without much strength if you use a bit of imagination. Fun working out the crux in complete safety :D
AlanM - 27/Jul/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 168
    hard E1 0 of 60
    E1 0 of 60
    easy E1 19 of 60
    hard HVS 37 of 60
    HVS 4 of 60
    easy HVS 0 of 60
    hard VS 0 of 60
    VS 0 of 60
    easy VS 0 of 60
    hard 6a 0 of 56
    6a 0 of 56
    easy 6a 1 of 56
    hard 5c 31 of 56
    5c 22 of 56
    easy 5c 2 of 56
    hard 5b 0 of 56
    5b 0 of 56
    easy 5b 0 of 56
    3 Stars 9 of 52
    2 Stars 41 of 52
    1 Star 1 of 52
    0 Stars 0 of 52
    Bag of ..... 1 of 52

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.