Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 168
14m. Climb the thin crack just right of the arete to reach the leaning wall and a horizontal slot. Good Friends here protect the bewildering moves (or outright leap) to jugs; make a rapid exit to easy ground. High in the grade and almost worth E1, the route is one of the most frigged in the Peak and sadly the runner placements are starting to suffer.
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A lot harder than Ratline
tried it a few years ago, aced it this month. definitely a beast but harder if your feet are small - the heelhook becomes a toe hook with size 9 feet which makes the underclings more positive
Mad as toast!
much easier to solo than to lead!
I don't see why it is easier to solo. The gear is a couple of friends which take seconds to place in a not too strenuous position. The moves are tough though, but it feels great when you get the jugs!
'Ard as nails!
Got pumped figuring out how to climb this, so I just slapped from the slot to the break before it was too late. It worked but it's not the sort of thing I expect to find on a HVS
Best route ive climbed in a long time spent ages looking at the bottom bit trying to figure it out but as soon as i was roped up i got straight up to the break no sweat. i found a left footed heel hook and a right hand pull in the crack below the break the best way up this beast
heelhooks? leg jams? get the sidepull/undercut, left foot smear, right step up and pull hard. Probably worth E1, but safe as houses. Great fun but tough move.
far to short the end comes all to soon and its naff when when you get there. good route though my first hvs.
Dyno for it!!!!! I did it on Monday and it's much easier than anyother way!!!!
A hard climb to onsite - it takes a while to work out the sequence.
this route was a saving grace on a rainy two days this week. i did a left foot toe hook and just press with right hand to get the jugs - a really nice move for the grade!
Hmmmm... Hard 5c move with perfect gear, above a slightly interesting start, and followed by nothing at all. Onsight, HVS sounds about right, but if there was another 2m of decent climbing either before or after the crux, it'd probably be E1.
Do-able without much strength if you use a bit of imagination. Fun working out the crux in complete safety :D