3 Stars
 E4 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Bow < Orpheus Wall  |  Monument Gully > Book Sniffer >>

An excellent and arduous route that feels like it is on the wrong cliff. Climb the technical slab until the rock leans. Battle on to the prominent hollow where final desperate moves leftwards gain easy ground. Intense!
FA. Gary Gibson 1980


vicious boulder problem start and bloody desparate finish - if ya short!
Marc - 12/Feb/02

Totally safe, apart from the boulder problem start. Very hard final move, easily falloffable. But excellent never the less. Might be wise to pre thread the thread on the right at the start. Very tricky to place otherwise, use your nutkey.
John Roberts - 31/Mar/02

The move to gain the friend slot is much easier if you rock up facing left, rather than right as per the piccy in the chatsworth guide.
bonjoy - 27/Oct/03

In reply to John Roberts

Not totally safe. I tested the small friends at half height (twice) and they rip when shock loaded as the are not as good as they look when you place them due to soft rock (previous trashing ?) - but the thread stops you hitting the ground - just...(Serves me right for trying it in humid/warm conditions - well that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it)
Simon Lee - 27/Aug/05

try a no.2 wallnut placed in the horizontal slot which i assume is where you are trying to place the small cams, now its safe! The cams higher up certainly dont rip!
JR - 31/Oct/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 35
    hard E5 0 of 12
    E5 0 of 12
    easy E5 0 of 12
    hard E4 5 of 12
    E4 6 of 12
    easy E4 0 of 12
    hard E3 1 of 12
    E3 0 of 12
    easy E3 0 of 12
    hard 6c 0 of 12
    6c 0 of 12
    easy 6c 0 of 12
    hard 6b 6 of 12
    6b 5 of 12
    easy 6b 0 of 12
    hard 6a 1 of 12
    6a 0 of 12
    easy 6a 0 of 12
    3 Stars 10 of 11
    2 Stars 1 of 11
    1 Star 0 of 11
    0 Stars 0 of 11
    Bag of ..... 0 of 11

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