Monument Gully Buttress

Technical
Rounded
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Monument Gully < Book Sniffer  |  The Keel > Naughty Nauticals >>


8m. The arete has tough moves to get stood on the beak at half-height, a huge jug on the ledge is helpful and getting ensconced in the break will cause no end of trouble. The exit is rounded too. A long-standing Severe from the old days!
FA. Ken Wright 1951

USER COMMENTS

Maybe HVS 5b with dignity, but ungradeable without! It is possible (for severe leaders still able to thrutch?) to wedge body parts or sit safely in the halfway break and wriggle (this may take some time) into a position from which you can reach a hold and stand up in balance!
Alan - 12/Aug/02

Pleasant. Completely overgraded at HVS and at 5b. It is possible to take a sit-down, hands-off rest on the crux (with no loss of dignity).
dc - 04/Nov/02

Had complete dignity failure at crux and wedged virtually all my body parts in at one point or another. Worth taking a good look at the crux before you start up because it's much harder to see what you are supposed to do once you're wedged in!
Mike - 24/Mar/03

Well, I thought it was good fun and a definite step up from most of the VS's on this edge, so worth HVS in my view.
JonC - 16/Jun/03

For full benefit, both for leader and spectators, this really must be an onsight lead, and not having seen any one else climb it! A fine route packed with fun and problems for a testing VS at 4c / 5a depending on your height.Chris
Chris - 15/Aug/03

I did an onsight lead without seeing anyone else climb it and I looked like a total prat, good gear though.
Liam Dangerfield - 27/Aug/03

I spent 20 minutes horizontal in the break, with a neat soles-up rest point making it very relaxing. Perplexing moves to escape the beak.
SteveM - 14/Oct/03

Scene of many a beached whale impression
Perplexing move to gain the top slab
Alex Purser - 16/Apr/04

pinch,pull,smear,break,sit down for a bit,step out pull,slab,over,done. A lovely climb in my opinion.
trumpy - 23/Jul/04

The route just left is worth a top rope.E5 6a/b solo, Book Sniffer.Start in the gully and climb out right to finish at the top of the arete.No leads please,as nuts will shatter the crux flake.

Paul Mitchell
paul mitchell - 02/Aug/05

Harder for the tall ? Long legs are a bit of a hinderance when trying stand up in the break, although the double knee-bar was amusing
chris_moor - 11/Sep/06

Don't know what everyone's using the word "perplexing" for... Climb the arete, place gear, rock onto the nose of the arete, and finish. Easy HVS, easy 5b, and very nice!
Pythonist - 19/May/07

Nothing like a nice lie down during a crux sequence :D

One of the few routes that favour the short?
AlanM - 06/Apr/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 74
    hard E1 0 of 25
    E1 0 of 25
    easy E1 0 of 25
    hard HVS 1 of 25
    HVS 15 of 25
    easy HVS 6 of 25
    hard VS 3 of 25
    VS 0 of 25
    easy VS 0 of 25
    hard 5c 0 of 24
    5c 0 of 24
    easy 5c 0 of 24
    hard 5b 0 of 24
    5b 17 of 24
    easy 5b 3 of 24
    hard 5a 4 of 24
    5a 0 of 24
    easy 5a 0 of 24
    3 Stars 1 of 25
    2 Stars 3 of 25
    1 Star 18 of 25
    0 Stars 3 of 25
    Bag of ..... 0 of 25

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