Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 74
8m. The arete has tough moves to get stood on the beak at half-height, a huge jug on the ledge is helpful and getting ensconced in the break will cause no end of trouble. The exit is rounded too. A long-standing Severe from the old days!
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Maybe HVS 5b with dignity, but ungradeable without! It is possible (for severe leaders still able to thrutch?) to wedge body parts or sit safely in the halfway break and wriggle (this may take some time) into a position from which you can reach a hold and stand up in balance!
Pleasant. Completely overgraded at HVS and at 5b. It is possible to take a sit-down, hands-off rest on the crux (with no loss of dignity).
Had complete dignity failure at crux and wedged virtually all my body parts in at one point or another. Worth taking a good look at the crux before you start up because it's much harder to see what you are supposed to do once you're wedged in!
Well, I thought it was good fun and a definite step up from most of the VS's on this edge, so worth HVS in my view.
For full benefit, both for leader and spectators, this really must be an onsight lead, and not having seen any one else climb it! A fine route packed with fun and problems for a testing VS at 4c / 5a depending on your height.Chris
I did an onsight lead without seeing anyone else climb it and I looked like a total prat, good gear though.
I spent 20 minutes horizontal in the break, with a neat soles-up rest point making it very relaxing. Perplexing moves to escape the beak.
Scene of many a beached whale impression
pinch,pull,smear,break,sit down for a bit,step out pull,slab,over,done. A lovely climb in my opinion.
The route just left is worth a top rope.E5 6a/b solo, Book Sniffer.Start in the gully and climb out right to finish at the top of the arete.No leads please,as nuts will shatter the crux flake.
Harder for the tall ? Long legs are a bit of a hinderance when trying stand up in the break, although the double knee-bar was amusing
Don't know what everyone's using the word "perplexing" for... Climb the arete, place gear, rock onto the nose of the arete, and finish. Easy HVS, easy 5b, and very nice!
Nothing like a nice lie down during a crux sequence :D