Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 35
8m. The wall 2m right of the arete has hard moves to get established in the midway break and then eases dramatically. Another route graded Severe for years.
This has got to be one of the stupidest routes I've ever climbed. If you do it, avoid the temptation to stick your upper body into the wide break for a bit of a rest, or you'll get more than you bargained for.
Reaching the break is steady. Getting stood up, whilst avoiding holds on MGB, seemed the crux. Harder than MGB.
Thought it an interesting route. A no. 4 Camalot on the left hand side of my harness helped a lot.
Gear and climbing in the same vain as MGB and Orpheus Wall. Harder move than MGB, though, involving exactly what it looks like it should be from the ground - don't be tempted out left, as it'll make it harder!
PS - Anyone wanting to try Orpheus Wall, give this a go first. It's a slighly simpler version of something similar with the same gear.