Anchor Traverse

1 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Thing on a Spring < Hollybush Gully  |  Floating Anarchy > Powder Monkey Parade >>

A pleasant counter to the ever-popular Powder Monkey Parade. From atop the chock, head left to the arete, step around this and ascend the pleasant front face. The crux is the section shared with Hollybush Gully, though the traverse is a bit bold.
FA. David Penlington 1952


A superb route, every bit as good as Powder Monkey Parade on the other side of the gully. Technically perhaps a bit easier than Powder Monkey, but protection is poor on the traverse and the rock bulges outwards slightly, so maybe HS 4a. The move left from the chock stone is rather intimidating!
Simon Caldwell - 21/Oct/02

Would thouroughly recommend reversing this as part of The Long Promenade VS4b starting up the promenade and continuing along PMP to finish up trafalgar wall. Lead it on a bank holiday for maximum effect.
Bob dulieu - 15/Aug/05

In my guide book the picture of this route Anchor Transverse ( No.5 in Book )and Hollybush Gully ( No.6 in book ) are mixed up - may be a bit of a surprise if you don't spot it!
Simon - 08/Oct/05

The start is mad as hell! Really thrutchy, with no skill required just brute force and lots of ignorance. If you do get started, it's good although the right wall of the gully is nice and green. Traversed too high, but still worthwhile. Little protection once traversed. I really need to buy some cams!
Mike Eldred - 05/Mar/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 8
    hard VS 0 of 2
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    3 Stars 2 of 4
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