Pilar de Finestrat
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E4. A good climb up the Enchanted Pillar. Take a full rack.
1) 5, 25m. Climb the wall rightwards then move left to a cave.
2) 6b, 30m. Climb up a groove and slab to a roof. Pull over this to a crack on the left then up to a ledge, bolt belay.
3) 6b+, 30m. Climb right then up to a crack, up this then right.
4) 6a, 45m. Climb right then up, past blocks, to a small roof. Over this to the arete on the left, then up to a cave.
5) 5+, 40m. The groove above leads to the abseil station.
FA. R.Edwards, A.Lloret 1994
second pitch is pumpy and third pitch is steep and sustained. definitely not e4 but may be e3. the abseil is wild (60m free hanging from just below the third belay to the ground).
ian bryant - 18/Apr/06
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