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<< The Edward's Finish < Directisima  |  Edge of Time > V&iacute;a Julia >>

E5. Exposed climbing with a UK grade of E5 6a. Start to the left of a ramp and directly below a faint crack coming down from the right side of an overhang high up. </br>1) 6b, 40m. Follow thin cracks to a shallow groove right of the roof. Climb this to a belay on blocks.</br>2) 6b, 25m. Climb up to a pocket and continue to a bay on the right. Follow the thin crack above to belay in another bay.</br>3) 6c, 20m. Climb the steep wall above and left of the cave. Join Vía Julia at the end of the layback.</br>4) 6a, 25m. Climb the groove on the left, move right and up to a tree. Make a rising traverse across the wall to a small niche. </br>5) 6a, 25m. Climb to a thread and continue up a scoop. Move up and right, then direct to a large flake crack. Belay.</br>6) 7a, 20m. Climb the middle of the wall (thread) then continue straight up. Take the crack on the right to reach a stance. </br>7) 4, 25m. Climb the steep slabs to the ledges on the left and a belay shared with Vía Julia.</br>Descent - Either continue to join the descent for Via Julia, or, abseil back down Edge of Time via the bolt belays.
FA. R Edwards, C.Edwards 1995


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