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3 Stars

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E1. A great mountain route. Start below the long groove which goes the full length of the face. A full rack is required, and the route can be done in three huge pitches if required.</br>1) 5, 25m. Climb the corner to a cave which has a bolt belay.</br>2) 5, 25m. Continue up the corner to another bolt belay.</br>3) 5+, 30m. Follow the corner to a peg. Move right across the wall (a devious move) to a good ledge and bolt belay.</br>4) 4, 25m. Move up then follow grooves and cracks leftwards to belay back in the main groove.</br>5) 6a, 50m. Climb up to another ledge and a possible belay. Move up to the roof above then a hard move right leads into a corner. Up this, then left to another corner which leads to the top. Abseil off from here or the pillar above leads to the top in four more pitches (grade 4 ).
FA. H.García Gallego 1980


Take extra rope slings to make the first two abseils safe. The top abseil off the pillar needs a double length; then we abbed (perhaps wrongly) off the pitch4 belay and that needed a single-length sling.
Simon Brown - 18/May/05

A very good route. Very sustained with a magnificent long top out. Bridging on the crux is the key
ramon marin martinez - 01/Jun/05

Brilliant route which can be done in 3 pitches if you have 60m ropes (and at least 16 quick draws). Very sustained and the crux is a full on gritstone thrutch with a lot of fresh air below you
Chris the Tall - 22/Jan/06

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