The Silent Sleeper

2 Stars
 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Diedro Edwards < Voyage to Orion  |  Sea of Dreams > The Sickle >>


A good easier route. Start on the right of the crag, at the lowest point, just to the left of a large boulder. Climb the slab past an old iron spike and ascend leftwards to a steep slab. Up this and move right into a corner. Go up this for a short way, to a old bolt, and climb directly up the wall to a ledge. Climb the steep wall into a shallow depression which leads to a wide bay with a thread belay. Abseil off from belay high up.
FA. R.Edwards, E.Edwards 1997

USER COMMENTS

Good climb up until the point a snake skin was found in a crack on the steep wall, just below the cave and I HATE snakes. The abseil tat was in orange coloured rock, that was very brittle!! My advise, don't bother.
Dave Brewin - 10/Jan/05

I thought this a good long route but quite hard for VS. We followed the topo diagram which shows the route going a bit too direct up the black streak- and we hit harder territory. Best to be left in a steep groove which leads to the belay cave.
brianrunner - 16/Apr/05

The line appears to be wrong on the topo - you should go left to a small ledge with a palm tree then up the scoop / groove above - the direct would be more than VS !
Simon Needham - 31/Oct/05

I think it is probably worth HVS, certainly needs some reading of the rock to find the correct line. Well worthwhile
trevor langhorne - 02/Nov/05

I think brianrunner and Simon Needham are correct, suggesting the line on the topo is too far right. Trying to follow the topo, the climbing seemed HVS, the gear very spaced - and it's a mistake to try to do a trad route with a single rope.
Simon Brown - 20/Nov/13

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