Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 169
14m. Good climbing up the thin crack and wall above. For the technically proficient a problem start is available on the right at a tough and rounded 5c.
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Very nice, but overgraded. The hardest part was grovelling onto the block below the crack, being a fatso with spindly little arms.
I agree that its soft for the grade, but I found the crux to be leaving the block and getting established on the upper section. If you don't want to be left with runners only 2m off the ground like I was, take biggish friends to protect the easier upper section.
Another Rockfax overgraded route. BMC give this route S 4b - it may be at the high end of that grade but this is not Very Severe, a single move over bomber runners with good holds...??!!
For once I agree with the upgrade. It's a while since I did it but my memory is of a choice between gear or holds?
I agreee with david bowden he is a wise vegetable, maybe a parsnip. This is surely not VS but S4b or even HS 4c. It has got loads more polished over the last few years though, maybe all those groups top roping it is having an effect.......
Lost count of the number of Gritstone VS's I've led this year, but I've clocked some hefty miledge at this grade. This route is a bit pf a one-move wonder, but the crux is defintely 4c and is definitely severe enough to warrant VS, despite the fact that the rest of the route is a piece of the yellow stuff. I agree that the move is well protected, but that is not exactly uncommon at VS 4c! I cannot believe that some people on this board seem to think the crux is only 4b. 4b my a***!
go james McN. i second his thinking. The move, i feel is not out of place at this grade. if you want to climb vs then this can get VS! if top sail does, then so should this.
ohh p.s. the move in photo i think was the crux. but i am a bit short and had to stretch on rout to get my foot up.
hard- getting established in the thin crack. You have to sidepull around your gear and get your foot next to your elbow and crank hard to get up. I ended up backing off it, but eventually got up as 2nd. rest of it is a lot easier, but fairly airy!
It's a helluva move though. I found that there was a pretty good finger jam at full stretch, before the slap, but bringing your foot up to your elbow is pretty tough.
this graded the same as the file at higgar tor, seems weired. i agree getting over the first bulge is the only hard bit but well protected. after that was to easy to be completely enjoyable. good first vs lead
James's comments struck a cord. I didn't do the File, but did it's near neighbour The Rat's Tail. And to say that is anything like the same should confer a custodial sentance.
yet another overgraded climb im just 16 and i cant see how something can get that much harder when there is so much more protection than on the first ascent BMC all the way
i thought the hardest bit was the start but i did wen i was 13 a few yrs ago. definately overgraded
yep, totally overgraded and over starred. But what about the problem starts? I think it's 5a on the left and bloody difficult (harder than 5c) on the right (i.e. i couldn't do it).
excellent throughout, i found the start very hard for the grade, goes to show everybody has different strengths and weaknesses and prefered styles of climbing - VS 5a would be my opinion
Finger jamming overcomes the polished bulge. You can get a wire in that does not remove a critcal hold. The rest is padding up the slab. large friends are handy ~ 3 ish. Nice.
Technical gradings are bang on for all the variations. Comparable to the other VSs at Birchen, and the variations are definitely 5b on the left and 5c on the right. However, the 5b is pretty much the same move as the E1 (5c) next door... I wouldn't argue if this got dwon-graded to HS, though.
Having just re-done the 5c start, this variation is harder than the Bulbous Bow, so the route with that start should get E1 rather than VS!
I think HS 4c is a fair grade for this route. The crux is a hard step up on finger jams though well protected with small nuts. The above slab is more delicate (rounded top out) and protected adequately with large cams in pockets.