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VS. Some pleasant climbing with a spectacular finish, and quite popular. Start below a steep slab at the left edge of the wall.
1) 4, 45m. Climb to and up a steep groove, step into the groove on the right, and up to large block (belay possible). Climb the wall trending right then direct to a ledge, chain belay.
2) 3, 15m. Traverse easily leftwards along ledges to reach a large bay at the foot of an arete.
3) 4, 45m. Climb the arete into a slanting groove. Go up this and move right at its top to a ledge (belay possible). Move left and climb the slab rightwards stepping left at the top onto a good ledge and trees.
4) 4+, 20m. From the left end of the ledge climb direct to the steep wall above. Follow the exposed leftwards-slanting fault-line which leads to the top.
Descent - Abseil back down the line.
FA. R.Edwards 1998
Pleasant but broken climbing for the most part with occasionally tricky gear. Top pitch is indeed spectacular and much harder than the rest of the route. A rather 'bushwhacking' walkoff to the hairpins on the road is quite straightforward.
Steve Culverhouse - 13/Apr/05
great route though a little disjointed. Pitch 1 is becoming polished but still great. The top pitch is a spectacular finish to a good route with good gear when needed. I abbed down the line of scorpion to save the walk off.
jon - 03/Apr/10
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