Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
E2. A long and exposed climb taking the right-hand Arete of the steep face overlooking the gorge. Start as for Sylphara.</br>1) 3, 45m. Traverse right on ledges to a long cave.</br>2) 6a, 30m. Climb slabs right of the cave to 2 bolts. The crack on the right leads to shallow grooves and a cave. Bolt belay.</br>3) 6a, 50m. Slabs on the left lead to a crack (bolt, ignore pegs going left). Climb the chimney on the right, past overhangs, to a groove. Move left below a roof then up a groove to a ledge.</br>4) 5, 36m. Climb the right-slanting groove, then go just right of the Arete to a ledge.</br>5) 4, 40m. Continue just right of the Arete until you can step onto it. Climb the slab to a good ledge.</br>4a) 6a+, 36m. Alternative pitch. Climb the groove above and pass a small cave on your left. Go direct to a cave.</br>5a) 5, 45m. Climb into another cave on the left (nest), then up a groove to follow slabs and a chimney which lead to the Arete. Follow this to a good ledge.</br>6) 4, 25m. Follow the Arete to a belay (peg).</br>7) 4+, 30m. Follow the Arete to a good ledge.</br>8) 4, 25m. Climb the Arete to ledges and the walk off.
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We did this route april 2006. This is a death route in the making. I have over 25 years of climbing experience and have never been on such loose and dangerous climb. The line looks great in the guide,but we found the route very difficult to follow. It is very committing as ab ing off is not an option due to the quality of the rock. Can not see how this is worth a visit let alone 2 stars. When you get to the penultimate belay do not follow the line of spaced bolts to the left. But that is another story. Oh yes by the way don't do the pitch which leads up to the nest in the nesting season as you may be fed to the chicks judging by the size of the nest.
Forgot to say about the "walk off". Be very aware of the railway cutting which is very difficult to see is the dark. The map of the descent route shows the path of the railway line but does not inform you of how deep and dangerous it is.
From the Costa Blanca News, 16th November 2007: