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HVS. An impressive route with exciting positions. The first three pitches are fully bolted. Descent is possible from the top of pitch 3, but the upper section has some good climbing - including the crux (about HVS). Start by abseiling 25m from the left side (looking uphill) of the new road bridge, to a small ledge well above the base of the gorge.
1) 5+, 40m. Climb across to a detached pillar, then move up a wall and make a delicate traverse left to reach a cave.
2) 4+, 36m. Pull steeply into a groove and follow it to ledges.
3) 3, 20m. Scramble easily up a corner behind and onto a big ledge. You can escape leftwards here, back to the road, or scramble up the ramp to below a big red groove.
4) 5+, 40m. Climb the groove (easier than it looks) until you are forced left across a slab to a stance.
5) 4, 30m. Move left, then climb up another groove, past a hole. Big flakes lead to a stance with a tree, below a crack.
6) 5, 20m. The crack above the tree is awkward, but soon eases and leads to a rather sudden finish. A more direct finish 2m left of the tree is 6a.
FA. Javier Motes, Moises GarcÃa, Enrique BarberÃ¡, Ernesto LÃ³pez 1970s
The ab from the road to the first stance is 25m, though its possible to get from the road to the bottom of the gorge in 1 rope length (as we found out when our ropes stuck and wouldnt pull through).
The Cave stance at the top of the first pitch is level with the road.
Do yourself a favour and take a rack so you can do the last 4 pitches.
A good route.
Ewan - 25/Feb/05
Also, the 6th pitch:
The awkward crack is straight above the tree stance (5 is about right)....the "Direct" 6a finish is actually about 7 feet to the left of the tree.
Ewan - 09/Mar/05
Yes, don't miss the top pitches. I thought the 5+ traverse on the first pitch harder than the 5+ on pitch 4.
Simon Brown - 18/May/05
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