<< Vuelo del águila < Boulder Terminar | Cuevas > Ghetto Blaster >>
The line is easy at the bottom, then intricate and wild at the top. The route is fully-bolted, except for the last pitch (3 ). The best approach is to walk under Cleoplaca and follow the tunnels through the cave to emerge just above the road. You can get at it directly from the road, but it's not as much fun.
1) 4+, 36m. Climb the groove, then traverse left to a small stance in the base of the second groove.
2) 5, 36m. Follow the next groove, then move left to a ledge.
3) 5+, 36m. Above the ledge is the big corner of Boulder Terminar. Climb the wall to the right of this to a small stance.
4) 6a+, 34m. Climb a steep flake behind the stance (pulling on a bit of gear reduces this to 5 ) then move around the pinnacle and continue to a well-positioned ledge.
5) 3, 30m. Scramble easily to the top.
FA. G Llobet, Calleja, Sanchez 1975
Is the 4th pitch really 34m? Felt less. Btw., communication on this pitch was totally impossible.
Jens Olav Nygaard - 28/Jun/06
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