<< Dedi - UBSA < Red Route II | Carlos > Blue Route >>
1) 5+, 26m. Follow black marks up the wall and through the overhangs to ledges. Avoiding the Blue Route is tricky.
2) 5+, 30m. Up the wall trending right then through the overhangs via parallel cracks and one stiff pull. Abseil off or:
3) 3, 32m. Easy ground follows threads and the black spots to the steep final wall.
4) 5+ 28m. The wall set high above everything is steep! There is an easier alternative to the left (about 3+) following many threads to the top.
Descent - Abseil back down the route or traverse the crest and make a 40m abseil down the line of Lofi (page 119 ).
A nice route but the fixed gear is very spaced. Bring a set of nuts if you are not comfortable with 8m runouts on 5+ ground.
James Cruickshank - 17/Dec/07
On the first pitch, near the top where it is indeed "tricky to avoid the Blue Route", I suspect that several small finger flakes have snapped off, making it a tough lead for 5+.
Simon Brown - 09/Dec/09
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