<< Vía Gómez-Cano < Anglada Gallego | Mare Nostrum > Nueva Dimensión >>
E4. A pair of spectacular, fully-bolted pitches high on the crag are reached by a lengthy approach on more traditional ground.
1) 6b+, 35m. As for Angalada Gallego.
2) 6c, 30m. As for Angalada Gallego.
3) 5+, 15m. Climb a groove to a bay and belay on the right.
4) 6a, 30m. Climb into the arch on the right, pulling out right then leftwards up the slabby wall to a ridge overlooking another bay. Cross this to a bolted belay on the far side.
5) 6a+, 25m. Climb an easy, brittle rib to ledges, then move right to better rock and climb up (thread) and right, (peg), then direct, exiting onto ledges below a long overhang. Bolt belay out right.
6) 6b+, 15m. Climb the converging cracks past the odd peg and wooden wedge. Big thread belay out left on the next ledge.
7) 3, 25m. Traverse left around the corner to enter another large bay. Walk up this to a bolt belay below a short wall.
8) 4, 25m. Climb the wall and easy ledges. Belay under the bolts.
9) 6b, 25m. Follow the bolts leftwards up the overhanging brown wall to a well-bolted stance in a niche. A brilliant pitch.
10) 6b+, 15m. Follow the bolts up and left, passing a bush on the lip, to arrive at a well-bolted stance - on Angalada Gallego. Clipping the belay probably constitutes the crux of this pitch.
11) -, 40m. Easy scrambling remains.
FA. Miguel CebriÃ¡n, Roy de Valera