<< Vía Gómez-Cano < Anglada Gallego | Mare Nostrum > Nueva Dimensión >>
E4. A pair of spectacular, fully-bolted pitches high on the crag are reached by a lengthy approach on more traditional ground.</br>1) 6b+, 35m. As for Angalada Gallego.</br>2) 6c, 30m. As for Angalada Gallego.</br>3) 5+, 15m. Climb a groove to a bay and belay on the right.</br>4) 6a, 30m. Climb into the arch on the right, pulling out right then leftwards up the slabby wall to a ridge overlooking another bay. Cross this to a bolted belay on the far side.</br>5) 6a+, 25m. Climb an easy, brittle rib to ledges, then move right to better rock and climb up (thread) and right, (peg), then direct, exiting onto ledges below a long overhang. Bolt belay out right.</br>6) 6b+, 15m. Climb the converging cracks past the odd peg and wooden wedge. Big thread belay out left on the next ledge.</br>7) 3, 25m. Traverse left around the corner to enter another large bay. Walk up this to a bolt belay below a short wall.</br>8) 4, 25m. Climb the wall and easy ledges. Belay under the bolts.</br>9) 6b, 25m. Follow the bolts leftwards up the overhanging brown wall to a well-bolted stance in a niche. A brilliant pitch.</br>10) 6b+, 15m. Follow the bolts up and left, passing a bush on the lip, to arrive at a well-bolted stance - on Angalada Gallego. Clipping the belay probably constitutes the crux of this pitch.</br>11) -, 40m. Easy scrambling remains.
FA. Miguel CebriÃ¡n, Roy de Valera