Crystal Arete

1 Stars
Loose
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Michelangelo < Crystal Edge  |  Hole in the Wall > Paint by Numbers >>


35m. A 'one-move-wonder' route up the narrow side slab. Start from a ledge 10m up on the arete.
1) 4c, 30m. Climb the right-hand side of the slab to a break. Step up left and follow the centre of the slab to the top overlap. Pull through this by a crack in its centre and belay on the ledge above.
2) 4a, 5m. Finish up the short wall at the back of the ledge.
FA. Brian Wyvill 5.4.80. It was once home to a magnificent 'sea cabbage' which was a useful hold on the upper section. Sadly this has now disappeared.

USER COMMENTS

I well remember this route-one reaches the overlap and the crack above leading on to the continuation slab appeared to be devoid of holds other than a moribund cabbage like plant!. It was very odd, because one step left into the corner and the overlap was easily overcome!
Bob Bennett - 21/Jan/05

I did this route in the late nineties, very useful sea cabbage!
Allan - 17/Jun/05

The cabbage has now disappeared, and the route is now possibly worth HVS 5A.
John2 - 08/Jul/05

I remember that cabbage, dodgy even when I did it, I thought it was worth HVS.
Al Evans - 02/Apr/06

Cabbage? Eh? One move wonder route, with little to recommend it (though perhaps worth it for the one move). Up the slab, cross the overlap at the cracks (hard for 4c), and with a slight lack of gear, but VS all the way...
Pythonist - 15/May/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 16
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