Mast Gully Buttress

1 Stars
 VS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Mast Gully Wall < Mast Gully Crack  |  Fo'c'sle Wall > Fo'c'sle Crack >>

Start just right of the gully and climb boldly rightwards to pass the bulge; continue more easily. Especially hard for the short.
FA. Gilbert Ellis 1950


Think the grade on this one is about right, unlike many of the shorter VSs in the area.
TS - 03/Mar/03

Wafty Cranker 24/06/03
There is no gear in that first break and no gear to stop you hitting the ground until the difficulties are passed, for that I would give it HVS.
Stuart Learmouth - 24/Jun/03

There is gear near to the first break. I used a small cam in a pocket near that break.
Huw D Jones - 11/Jul/03

An excellent route, an unexpected minor classic. The start is maybe 5a if you are 6ft+. For the short, the start is desparate. There didn't seem to me to be any gear until the second break (I didn't see any pockets that would take cams and the 1st break is rounded and flares). Quite stiff at VS in my view.
JonC - 06/Sep/04

Soloed this route quite a few times but i still can't help shitting it on the lower moves (i'm only 5'8.)
Adam Moroz - 12/Dec/04

Bold for the grade but not reachy
craig devonshire - 12/Oct/08

I thought the start 5b & reachy, but I'm only 5'8". Cracking route though.
Iain Thow - 30/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 28
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 2 of 10
    hard VS 3 of 10
    VS 5 of 10
    easy VS 0 of 10
    hard HS 0 of 10
    HS 0 of 10
    easy HS 0 of 10
    hard 5b 0 of 9
    5b 0 of 9
    easy 5b 2 of 9
    hard 5a 1 of 9
    5a 5 of 9
    easy 5a 1 of 9
    hard 4c 0 of 9
    4c 0 of 9
    easy 4c 0 of 9
    3 Stars 0 of 9
    2 Stars 5 of 9
    1 Star 4 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

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