Lucky Strike Top 50

3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Good Luck, Mr Gronski < Strike Lucky  |  The Happy Go Lucky Finish > Circus Circus >>


35m. The main line of the slab is yet another Littlejohn classic, one of the great climbs of Pembroke. The route has adequate protection (small wires) and is slightly serious for the second. Start from the huge boulder beneath the wall or, when the tide is in, as for Strike Lucky. Step awkwardly off the boulder and climb up into a groove to the left of a roof (possible refuge belay). Move up to gain the rising (chalk-covered) line on the wall. Follow this until 4m short of the corner, then climb straight up to the top.
FA. Pat Littlejohn 11.5.80. FA. (HGLF) Nick Dixon 4.84

USER COMMENTS

Amazingly, it lives up to all the hype! Just magnificent
Willstudyingmet - 09/Feb/05

Sounds daft I know, but I reckon Lucky Strike is harder than Strike Lucky. The comment about the second on LS is very true which is why I reckon it deserves to be E2. SL by comparison is straightforward and well geared.
john horscroft - 21/Feb/05

Reckon this is E2; inescapable and quite strenuous...found myself wilting on the steep finishing bulge.
alan - 31/May/05

Youre right about it being serious for the second. Basically its e1, and never harder than 5b, but the environment and the consequences of your second taking a slip are pretty harsh
graeme thomson - 13/Jun/05

Getting a bit polished, felt more like E2 to me especially for the postition. Take lots of small wires!
Chad - 25/Jul/05

I did it on a very hot day with a large swell so it was a bit like a sauna. I thought it hard for E1. A superb route
JRobertson - 06/Dec/05

great route - i thought E1. Think the numbering of SL and LS is wrong on the new rockfax topo though
cornishben - 02/May/06

awesome climb. 3 stars. e2 in the cc guide and that felt about right. great exposure and tricky crux that aint too hard but certainly felt like it at the time.
paulr - 09/Oct/06

Lovely route. I think it's E1 climbing in a E2 situation ... should be given E2 for this reason alone.
Steven Delaney - 06/Jul/09

OK so it's a bit intimidating but the gear and holds are all there. I think high end E1 is about right.
Chris Parson - 07/Jul/09

fab route, 3* etc.....hard to believe it's a natural line! low end E2 since the gear is shallow at times and the crux is quite tough in an intimidating situation. I don't really get the "serious for the second" stuff since it's swing into space rather than a potential serious deck out for leader if gear ripped- i know my partner, who tried to lead it then seconded it instead would agree!
cockers - 15/Apr/12

Small amendment to the above: LS is slightly serious for second but still more serious and definitely more intimidating for leader especially at the crux.
cockers - 16/Apr/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 93
    hard E2 0 of 32
    E2 0 of 32
    easy E2 14 of 32
    hard E1 11 of 32
    E1 6 of 32
    easy E1 1 of 32
    hard HVS 0 of 32
    HVS 0 of 32
    easy HVS 0 of 32
    hard 5c 0 of 32
    5c 0 of 32
    easy 5c 0 of 32
    hard 5b 7 of 32
    5b 23 of 32
    easy 5b 2 of 32
    hard 5a 0 of 32
    5a 0 of 32
    easy 5a 0 of 32
    3 Stars 27 of 29
    2 Stars 2 of 29
    1 Star 0 of 29
    0 Stars 0 of 29
    Bag of ..... 0 of 29

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