Exit

2 Stars
Fluttery
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Ukase < Ausfahrt  |  Jaded > Der Kommissar >>


14m. Climb a thin crack through the bulge and the delicate wall above trending to the right. Tiny wires offer some protection.
FA. Roger Greatrick 1983

USER COMMENTS

the tiny wires that "protect" are not inspiring, best not rely on them. no pushover.
Mike Roe - 02/Oct/04

the tiny wires can be backed up by some cunning 'half-in'larger wires which bite just enough
Simon Lee - 08/Jan/05

As Simon says, reasonable sidways wires just below, plus the moves above are only around 5a.
Alan James - UKC - 03/May/05

The nuts after lip are reasonable, but once your there its easy moves up the face above! Nice route though!
north_country_boy - 14/May/05

Wasn't convinced by any of the nuts above the lip, but then that's a judgement call.
The upper section is a lot easier, but don't know that 'til your on it.
karl walton - 04/Dec/05

re karl. we do now you've told us
ste - 17/Mar/06

Good point, I shall try to keep my beta under better control.
karl walton - 31/Mar/06

A fine and very clean route. The crux over the roof seems depressingly friction-dependent initially, but goes via a nice sequence. The easier, but not easy, face above is reasonably protected if you're loaded up with RPs, Offsets, Peenuts, small cams, filed down sliders, stacked micro nut-keys etc etc...
Fiend - 13/Nov/06

A good route...I thought the wires on the wall post-crux were crap, and not worth bothering with.
Dave Johnson - 02/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard E4 0 of 10
    E4 0 of 10
    easy E4 0 of 10
    hard E3 3 of 10
    E3 2 of 10
    easy E3 5 of 10
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 0 of 10
    easy E2 0 of 10
    hard 6a 0 of 10
    6a 0 of 10
    easy 6a 1 of 10
    hard 5c 2 of 10
    5c 6 of 10
    easy 5c 1 of 10
    hard 5b 0 of 10
    5b 0 of 10
    easy 5b 0 of 10
    3 Stars 1 of 9
    2 Stars 6 of 9
    1 Star 2 of 9
    0 Stars 0 of 9
    Bag of ..... 0 of 9

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