Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 29
Climb the crack through the bulge to a ledge on the left then the delicate wall via a thin seam trending rightwards. Tiny wires offer some protection.
the tiny wires that "protect" are not inspiring, best not rely on them. no pushover.
the tiny wires can be backed up by some cunning 'half-in'larger wires which bite just enough
As Simon says, reasonable sidways wires just below, plus the moves above are only around 5a.
The nuts after lip are reasonable, but once your there its easy moves up the face above! Nice route though!
Wasn't convinced by any of the nuts above the lip, but then that's a judgement call.
re karl. we do now you've told us
Good point, I shall try to keep my beta under better control.
A fine and very clean route. The crux over the roof seems depressingly friction-dependent initially, but goes via a nice sequence. The easier, but not easy, face above is reasonably protected if you're loaded up with RPs, Offsets, Peenuts, small cams, filed down sliders, stacked micro nut-keys etc etc...
A good route...I thought the wires on the wall post-crux were crap, and not worth bothering with.