2 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Seville Flake < Ausfahrt  |  Der Kommissar > Jaded >>

Climb the crack through the bulge to a ledge on the left then the delicate wall via a thin seam trending rightwards. Tiny wires offer some protection.
FA. Roger Greatrick 1983


the tiny wires that "protect" are not inspiring, best not rely on them. no pushover.
Mike Roe - 02/Oct/04

the tiny wires can be backed up by some cunning 'half-in'larger wires which bite just enough
Simon Lee - 08/Jan/05

As Simon says, reasonable sidways wires just below, plus the moves above are only around 5a.
Alan James - UKC - 03/May/05

The nuts after lip are reasonable, but once your there its easy moves up the face above! Nice route though!
north_country_boy - 14/May/05

Wasn't convinced by any of the nuts above the lip, but then that's a judgement call.
The upper section is a lot easier, but don't know that 'til your on it.
karl walton - 04/Dec/05

re karl. we do now you've told us
ste - 17/Mar/06

Good point, I shall try to keep my beta under better control.
karl walton - 31/Mar/06

A fine and very clean route. The crux over the roof seems depressingly friction-dependent initially, but goes via a nice sequence. The easier, but not easy, face above is reasonably protected if you're loaded up with RPs, Offsets, Peenuts, small cams, filed down sliders, stacked micro nut-keys etc etc...
Fiend - 13/Nov/06

A good route...I thought the wires on the wall post-crux were crap, and not worth bothering with.
Dave Johnson - 02/Mar/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 29
    hard E4 0 of 10
    E4 0 of 10
    easy E4 0 of 10
    hard E3 3 of 10
    E3 2 of 10
    easy E3 5 of 10
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 0 of 10
    easy E2 0 of 10
    hard 6a 0 of 10
    6a 0 of 10
    easy 6a 1 of 10
    hard 5c 2 of 10
    5c 6 of 10
    easy 5c 1 of 10
    hard 5b 0 of 10
    5b 0 of 10
    easy 5b 0 of 10
    3 Stars 1 of 9
    2 Stars 6 of 9
    1 Star 2 of 9
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