Blue Sky Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Eaves Dripper  |  Blue Lagoon > Landvetter >>


56m. A popular Pembrokeshire classic which is one the best VS routes around. It climbs the huge arete of the main face of Saddle Head, above a tide-washed platform. Access is tricky and the overall atmosphere is added to by the awkward approach. Start as described above. Photo on page 100.
1) 4a, 28m. Climb a weakness on the left-hand side of the arete to reach a groove. Follow this onto the arete and then step right and climb the rugged cracked wall to a ledge and cave stance.
2) 4b, 28m. Climb up a crack above the stance and continue in a great position up the arete to enter the wide finishing groove.
FA. Pat Littlejohn, John Harwood 8.4.78

USER COMMENTS

Sorry! Have to say I was thoroughly underwhelmed by Blue Sky. Poor first pitch and a distinct lack of line. One star at best.
john horscroft - 21/Feb/05

Up in the top 3 VS's i have done anywhere. Fantastic climbing, never too taxing just seems to come together perfectly. Good gear and perfect positions all the way...Gem.
Shaun Walby - 21/Feb/05

wonderful route - worth the hype
The Pylon King - 08/May/05

First pitch poor, vague and wet, though exciting belay above the crashing waves. Second pitch superb position, climbing and gear.
Haggis - 23/May/05

Possibly the best VS I've done. Thought the move around the arete on to the cracked wall was in a sensational position.
Pat Wilson - 06/Jun/05

There is an excellent variation just to the left called Blue Sky to the Right, which takes a groove and slab. Do this and look down between your legs straight into the sea!
Geoff Odds - 13/Oct/05

Very enjoyable, excellent position, feels great belaying just above the sea.
Virgil Scott - 26/Oct/05

The move round onto the cracked face on pitch one is now considerably easier and not so exciting as a large part of the route has fallen down - classic moves gone foreever!!! first pich only 4A now.
pylonking - 23/Jul/06

The best VS in South Wales. Technically easy but a great adventure!
Alun - 10/Apr/07

Good positions but technically easy for VS, the first pitch is 4a, and the second pitch has only one 4b move. VS for acess and potential route finding problems.
Allan McCall - 21/Jul/07

Wow! A fantastic adventure. We abbed in and started from a hanging belay above crashing sea, then the positions are mindblowing above. A real pity if the bottom bit has collapsed.
Iain Thow - 20/Dec/08

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  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 39
    hard HVS 0 of 13
    HVS 0 of 13
    easy HVS 0 of 13
    hard VS 0 of 13
    VS 8 of 13
    easy VS 5 of 13
    hard HS 0 of 13
    HS 0 of 13
    easy HS 0 of 13
    hard 4c 0 of 13
    4c 0 of 13
    easy 4c 0 of 13
    hard 4b 1 of 13
    4b 11 of 13
    easy 4b 1 of 13
    hard 4a 0 of 13
    4a 0 of 13
    easy 4a 0 of 13
    3 Stars 9 of 13
    2 Stars 2 of 13
    1 Star 1 of 13
    0 Stars 1 of 13
    Bag of ..... 0 of 13

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