Broadside

1 Stars
Technical
 f6A+

Adjacent Routes
<< Fo'c'sle Chimney < Fo'c'sle Arete  |  The Brigand > The Buccaneer >>


Using the arete make a long reach right for a hidden pocket and a tricky layback move reaches the slanting shallow groove.
FA. (from left) G.Warren 1988. FA. (direct) Graham Parkes 1993

USER COMMENTS

Where does this route go?
The guide book topo shows the following route "The Brigand (E4 7a)".

From the description I couldn't really see where you were meant to climb.
LankyPaddy - 31/Jan/05

It's the wall right of Fo'c'sle arete. Bit further on from the brigand which is the crack that is near impossible to get into!
Iggy_B - 20/May/05

As far as I can tell, this route starts from a powerful layback position on the arete, trying to gain the arete where the thin break is in order to make a long reach rightwards to the "hidden" pocket. The groove is more harrowing than suggested!
Pythonist - 21/Nov/05

No way is this E2. The upper groove is about severe and it is not a long reach to the pocket. HVS 6A or V2
craig devonshire - 12/Oct/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
    hard f6B 0 of 3
    f6B 0 of 3
    easy f6B 0 of 3
    hard f6A+ 0 of 3
    f6A+ 0 of 3
    easy f6A+ 0 of 3
    hard f6A 0 of 3
    f6A 0 of 3
    easy f6A 0 of 3
    hard f5+ 0 of 3
    f5+ 0 of 3
    easy f5+ 0 of 3
    hard f5 0 of 3
    f5 0 of 3
    easy f5 0 of 3
    hard f4+ 0 of 3
    f4+ 0 of 3
    easy f4+ 0 of 3
    hard f4 0 of 3
    f4 0 of 3
    easy f4 0 of 3
    hard f3+ 0 of 3
    f3+ 0 of 3
    easy f3+ 0 of 3
    hard f3 0 of 3
    f3 0 of 3
    easy f3 0 of 3
    hard f2+ 0 of 3
    f2+ 0 of 3
    easy f2+ 0 of 3
    hard f2 0 of 3
    f2 0 of 3
    easy f2 0 of 3
    hard ?? 0 of 3
    ?? 1 of 3
    easy ?? 2 of 3
    3 Stars 0 of 3
    2 Stars 2 of 3
    1 Star 1 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.