Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 18
40m. A magnificent route up groovy rock. The protection is good, after the start, but the climbing is steep and sustained until you get to the headwall. Start on a ledge right of the recess and traverse left to reach the left-hand of two grooves above the pool. Contort up the groove to reach a wide crack, follow this then traverse right and up across the steep wall. Step around the juggy arete, in a superb position, into another groove. Climb this and the bulge above with difficulty. Finish more easily up the razor sharp headwall.
I wasn't leading but I don't remember this being well protected
Well protected when you get on to the nice rock, before that its the usual story with that shiny/slatey type rock. Small stuff with quite hard climbing
I found plenty of gear on this route, and you get plenty of hands off rests so it's not too bad really. The airy move round the corner is on the biggest jugs in the world and is pleasantly easy, only the top bulge is pumpy. Great fun! I think wall trained people will dislike the contorted shiny groove at the bottom but it's not that bad.....
Fully deserving of top 50 status. Classic Pembroke - steep, long, outrageous exposure, but never desperately hard.
Brilliant route & not really very sustained in my opinion
I was so surprised after a damp and slippery start, the route was a pleasure, nothing desperate, easyish for the grade. Well worth the trip.