Preposterous Tales Top 50

3 Stars
Fluttery
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Telekinesis < Neurosis  |  High Life > Frigid Digits >>


This route is a wild, crazy trip into the bowels of the earth. It starts as for Quoin, and traverses into the low sea cave to the right, thereafter firing up through a massive blowhole system, to arrive at the top blowhole exit (see photo right). Big, big adventure! Please note that the route is much harder when itís soaking wet. In perfect conditions it may only be HVS, in normal conditions it is around E2, and in wild conditions it is even harder and inadvisable. Check the blowhole exit before you commit, as this gives you an idea of how wet the route is likely to be - it does occasionally dry out, especially with a strong, dry southerly blowing. Head torches very much required (as is an easy-going sense of humour). But then again, thereís also that first ascent date!
1) 5b, 15m. Traverse rightwards into the cave, aiming for its apex. Ape into the cave to reach a good belay 4m inside, on a boulder choke.
2) 5a, 10m. Bridge inwards to where the cave widens. Committing but surprisingly easy moves across the left wall lead to a corner beneath daylight. Belay here.
3) 5a, 25m. Follow the corner above to one of the strangest finishes at Pembroke.
FA. Dave Scott-Maxwell, Paul Dearden 1.4.95

USER COMMENTS

This route is a serious undertaking - far more so than other Pembroke routes of E2. Do not go near it if a big sea is running - even 50' up in the cave you will catch the waves and it ain't funny.

The first traverse pitch is actually technically the hardest (about 5b), often damp and protection is adequate but not great until the chockstone is reached. After this, retreating is not really an option.
GrahamD - 09/Feb/05

One of Britain's finest climbing adventures. The grade varies wildly. On a damp dark December day with a big sea running and no torch it felt like E4. I've met people who've climbed it in perfect conditions who swear it's only HVS.
Very high failure rate ( I've often watched retreated parties while doing neghbouring climbs.)
John Alcock - 16/May/05

PS. You should include the High Life in the next guide. It's as good as Dream of White Horses. E1/2 5c.
John Alcock - 16/May/05

Although I've only done Preposterous Tales the once - on a dark damp day in April, without torches, chalk or prior knowledge of the route - I recall some debate as to the grade. Did it merit HVS or VS? It appears that one can be so wrong sometimes!
DSM - 17/Jun/05

One of the most dangerous undertakings I have ever done. Climbed far chimney instead of wall. 2nd pitch took 3 hours of complete concentration on slime. This is not climbing its caving. DONT DO IT!!!
chris wyatt - 02/Nov/05

If you like adventure then this is an absolute must. Due to the nature of the, often wet, rock and the potential difficulties of getting back on should one of your party suffer a fall, added to that the difficulties of exacting a rescue or even communicating with anyone, even your partner, in the event of an accident, this climb dose deserve E2. Of course that is exactly why this climb is sooo fantastic, the sense of elation as you emerge from the blow hole is rarely paralleled. Take a head torch if you must, but its better without.
scott ellwood - 06/Jun/07

Elation, no. Nausea, yes.
Dave Foster - 01/Mar/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 32
    hard E3 0 of 6
    E3 0 of 6
    easy E3 0 of 6
    hard E2 0 of 6
    E2 4 of 6
    easy E2 1 of 6
    hard E1 1 of 6
    E1 0 of 6
    easy E1 0 of 6
    hard 5c 0 of 6
    5c 0 of 6
    easy 5c 0 of 6
    hard 5b 0 of 6
    5b 3 of 6
    easy 5b 3 of 6
    hard 5a 0 of 6
    5a 0 of 6
    easy 5a 0 of 6
    3 Stars 18 of 20
    2 Stars 1 of 20
    1 Star 0 of 20
    0 Stars 0 of 20
    Bag of ..... 1 of 20

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