Star Wars Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
 E4 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Ocean Passage < Lundy Road  |  The Empire Strikes Back > Luke Skywalker >>


38m. A magnificent and elegant climb. There is a lot more gear than the grade suggests and although there are hardly any easy moves, there are no desperate ones either. Start from the ledge at the foot of the corner. The original start followed the corner for 3m then traversed right to the arete but it is better to climb up the blunt arete from the right-hand end of the belay ledge. Continue to the mid-height break and the base of a long straight crack. Move right to a narrow groove then trend up and rightwards on improving holds to another break. Move right again and finish up a groove with an increasing sense of elation - beautiful!
FA. Ben Wintringham 29.6.80

USER COMMENTS

Many south west climbers' first E4 on-sight. The gear is good but slightly spaced. Take some RPs/small wires for the crux.
One of my all time favourite climbs.
John Alcock - 16/May/05

never even close to E4. steady away E3. aBsolutely brilliant route/
fatty - 31/Aug/05

A very nice E3 slab when done with the CC-authorised original start. Everything is just great on this route from the intricate start to the well-positioned finish, and it's all pretty relaxing too.
Fiend - 27/Jun/06

I think this route is better as e4 than a hard E3, it has that feel. But, regardless its still as good as it gets and a 4* super-(modern)mega clasic
alexmason - 14/Aug/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 42
    hard E5 0 of 15
    E5 0 of 15
    easy E5 0 of 15
    hard E4 0 of 15
    E4 4 of 15
    easy E4 8 of 15
    hard E3 3 of 15
    E3 0 of 15
    easy E3 0 of 15
    hard 6a 0 of 14
    6a 0 of 14
    easy 6a 0 of 14
    hard 5c 0 of 14
    5c 14 of 14
    easy 5c 0 of 14
    hard 5b 0 of 14
    5b 0 of 14
    easy 5b 0 of 14
    3 Stars 13 of 13
    2 Stars 0 of 13
    1 Star 0 of 13
    0 Stars 0 of 13
    Bag of ..... 0 of 13

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